DogTrainster.Com

Article Source: examiner.com
Article by: Jeff Millman

I saw something horrifying on Friday. I was working with two of my fantastic clients and their Bernese Mountain Dog puppy. I was hired to help McIntire with a bit of fear around men, hand shyness, and other assorted issues such as teaching him to have better off leash control. We were on the way back from a very successful session in the park when I saw something that made my skin crawl.

It started out developing into a scene that I have witnessed countless times in Chicago. A man walking his dogs and giving off body language that showed that both the person and one of the dogs was not comfortable with my client’s dog. There is a lot of dog-dog aggression in the city and the congestion and sheer numbers of dogs results in frequent encounters with dogs that do not like other dogs. Studying dog behavior and signs of aggression and anxiety is not only a fascination with me, but a necessity for self-preservation. I would have had many more than 5 bites in the past if I did not know what I was doing. I can tell that a dog is anxious way before I am in harms way or put a dog in harms way. It was also obvious that the man had seen this behavior before as well, because he started to choke up on the leash and direct his attention towards his dog.

Then it happened. The Yorkie stiffened, looked at McIntire and started growling. I had already suggested to my clients that we move aside and let the man and his dogs by, because it was obvious that the little Yorkie was getting more uncomfortable as we got closer. But, instead of stopping or slowing down, the man continued moving towards us as we were moving out of the way. And, no surprise to anyone his dog started barking and lunging towards the end of his leash.

It happened really quickly. He said, “No!” and kicked his dog. His dog was probably 6 pounds soaking wet. The Yorkie did not yelp, or seem to care that much. But, it is impossible to know whether the assault caused any injuries that will show up later. He was also in a full frenzy telling McIntire to back off. Animals don’t stop to assess their wounds during the heat of a fight. But, whether he was injured or not is not the point.

We all walked by in horror and my client’s mentioned how terrible the whole scene was. I agreed, but kept my deepest feelings to myself. I was angry. I was sad. I thought of what those dog’s lives might be like. Living in fear each time they saw a dog, not only scared of the approaching dog but scared of the boots their person was wearing. What a tortured existence this must be. The ironic thing is I think one or both of the dogs had bows in their hair. What twisted person would take the time to put bows in their dogs hair, put them in a situation where they are obviously uncomfortable, and then kick them for acting like a scared dog?

THE MAN MUST HAVE WEIGHED 200 LBS! Kicking a dog? A 6 lb Yorkie? I don’t care if it was a 95 lb Rottweiler, it is the person’s fault for putting his dog in that situation in the first place. The only excuse for ever being physical with a dog is if there is a dog fight or if the dog is attacking a person and the non-invasive methods including noise do not work to break it up. Dogs can cause damage very quickly.

But, it is inexcusable to have a dog that has obvious fear around other dog and repeatedly put him nto a situation and then get angry with him. The man could have crossed the street. He could have told us that his dog wasn’t comfortable and would we mind waiting a moment until he passed. He could have gone the other way.

Fear and aggression can be incredibly frustrating. I train dogs for a living and I have to sometimes remind myself to make sure I am focusing on the small successes when I am training a fear aggressive dog. They can take one step forward in their progress and two steps back sometimes. They can seem to be ok in a situation and then lunge for no obvious reason. But you know what? It is not the dog’s fault for being fearful. There are many reasons why dogs are fearful. It might have been improper socialization, or a trauma or genetics. But often it is a combination of the three and most of the time they can be helped. There are sometimes extreme situations that are unworkable and necessitate the need to rehome a dog to a less stressful environment, but most dogs can stay in the home.

The terribly ironic aspect about the ribbon wearing Yorkie with the abusive man is that he might actually love his dogs but just did not know how to help them! Maybe he saw a television show that spouts the need to be “A calm leader” while the trailer for the show shows a woman dragging her Basset Hound down the street by a choke chain while the dog is lying on the ground. Maybe this guy just got bad advice! There is also a pretty good chance that he did not socialize his dogs properly and this whole situation could have been avoided.

If you have an aggressive dog, I am telling you from the bottom of my heart that I feel for you. I am sure you would rather have a dog that runs happily through the park chasing butterflies and playing with all of the other dogs. I know that it stinks to cross the street and get looks from the other dog guardians that are questioning at the best or accusatory at the worst. I know that there are a lot of you reading this that adopted a dog from the shelter and now have a dog with an unknown history that shows dog aggression. I know most of you are so emotionally invested in your dogs that you would do anything to help them. But there are so many competing views on how to achieve your goal. You are probably not a professional trainer and want to spend quality time with your dog after a hard day’s work. You want to have a dog, not a project. I understand completely.

But, it is never ok to put a dog in a situation repeatedly and then get angry.

There are lots of resources out there that can help you work with your dog. You can listen to my radio show on dog to dog aggression, look for a wonderful trainer. You can post questions to the forums. You can read Jean Donaldson’s book on dog aggression.

Don’t practice alpha rolls, don’t use choke chains, shock collars or prong collars. Work on lessening the fear and anxiety and work on teaching your dog to be confident and feel safe, not scared.

Don’t lose hope. Don’t.

Article Source: progressivepuppy.com

For centuries, humans have imagined they are the only animals with morals.  But humans are not alone in the moral arena… Animal behaviorist Marc Bekoff says there’s a long list of observable emotional and ethical behavior of dogs:

• Most dogs have a sense of fair play. They dislike cheaters. They experience joy in play. They delight in friends. The big guys handicap themselves in games with little guys.

• Dogs get jealous when a rival gets more or better treats or treatment. They are resentful, unnerved or saddened by unfair behavior. They are made anxious by suspense. They get afraid.

• They are embarrassed when they mess up or do something clumsy - and they feel remorse or regret when they do something wrong. They seek justice. They remember the bad things done to them but sometimes choose to forgive.

• Dogs have affection and compassion for their animal and human friends and family. They defend loved ones. They grieve their losses. They have hope.

Article Source: examiner.com
Article by: Jeff Millman

“Jake!, Jake!, Jake!”

I was in the park with my client and we were working on off leash control strategies with his rambunctious one-year-old Border Collie mix. Jake was not too interested in anything at the moment besides the squirrel jumping from branch to branch in a big oak tree. My client was calling Jake repeatedly before I asked him what he wanted Jake to do when he called his name.

My client told me that he wanted Jake to come to him when he called. I then asked him if he wanted him to come to him every time when he called him. “Yes, he said, but I sometimes want him to look at me when I say his name so I get his attention so then I can ask him to do something else.”

That is a problem. Using one cue for multiple meanings can be very confusing for dogs. These are contextual cues or cues that your dog has to think about the context of the cue based on the situation. To create snappy, reliable responses, teach one cue for a specific meaning and then condition that cue by practicing numerous repetitions until the cue and the resulting behavior are fixed in your dog’s personality.

It is very common for people to use their dog’s name in a variety of situations. The most common uses of meanings for a dog’s name include “Don’t jump on the guests”, “come here”, or “look at me.”

Another common contextual cue is, “leave it”. I frequently see people use “leave it” to mean both “leave that object alone” and “drop that object”. Instead of using “leave it” for both meanings, you should separately teach “leave it” which means “do not go near that object or put it in your mouth” and “drop it” to mean “open your mouth”.

So, the takeaway from all of this is to take a step back and make sure your dog understands exactly what each cue means that you are teaching. Do not expect your dog to understand different meanings of the cue based on the situation. Your dog’s name might mean, Come, Leave It, or just meant get your dog’s attention similar to a “Watch me” cue.

Article Source: examiner.com
Article by: Michelle Critchell

We’ve seen the photographs of people wearing surgical masks worldwide. You may have even seen people locally wearing the masks. I saw a landscaper with a mask on the other day and my first thought was swine flu, rather than the real cause for precaution–pollen.

We know we humans are susceptible to influenza viruses and there have been confirmed cases in the U.S., but can a dog catch the recent scary strain of swine flu? I asked Dr. Moe Richards and Dr. Mike Richards of Mathews Veterinary Clinic in Mathews, Virginia.

“I haven’t heard of a case of a dog contracting swine flu, especially in this country,” said Dr. Mike Richards. “Influenza research is changing; however, and it is recognized that dogs can get the flu,” added Dr. Richards.

FREAKY FACT: According to the CDC (Centers for Disease Control), studies have shown that 30% to 50% of commercial U.S. swine have been infected with swine flu.  And no, you cannot get swine flu from eating pork. There is no evidence to show that it can be transmitted through food. Eating properly handled and cooked pork and pork products is safe. Cooking pork to an internal temperature of 160°F kills bacteria and viruses.

“It is unlikely that a dog will get the swine flu, but there are reported cases of dogs getting the avain flu (bird flu). I would not be surprised to hear of a canine swine flu case,” noted Dr. Mike Richards.

It is unusual for people to get influenza virus infections directly from animals, but sporadic human infections caused by certain avian influenza viruses and pig influenza viruses have been reported. These sporadic human infections and outbreaks, however, rarely result in sustained transmission among humans., according to the CDC.

Article Source: Gundogmag.com
By Bob West

Long slow distance training will prepare your dog for a full day afield.

A dog with a solid genetic background, proper training and optimum nutrition possesses the proverbial “three-legged stool” that leads to achieving potential. Along with proper nutrition, proper conditioning enables sporting dogs to perform amazing feats. Proper nutrition and conditioning also can help minimize injuries. Our goal is not to push our dogs beyond their limit, but to condition them to perform at their peak potential.

You should set up a progressive training and conditioning plan to help build a dog’s cardiovascular base. You also should prepare your dog for a variety of environmental situations, including weather and humidity.

Your plan should include a warm-up followed by resistance training and building up to long slow distance (LSD) training. Resis-tance training is an activity that helps to build muscle mass, but it is important not to build too heavy muscles that could change a dog’s gait or affect its reach and drive.

LSD training helps to build a dog’s cardiovascular pace by increasing endurance. Dogs train at a slower than normal pace, but they travel a longer distance than they are accustomed. Cross training, such as swimming, should be part of a training program as it helps to balance a dog’s strength by conditioning muscles not used as much during their regular sport.

A trainer should ease into advanced training. During advanced training, resistance training should increase, and LSD training should decrease. Other methods used in advanced training include pace runs (exercise at or near performance intensity) and variable-speed intervals that alternate between slower and faster speeds. High-speed intervals, which can be used when a dog is fit and prepared, are fast runs that help to finish a dog’s training before competition.

Recovery also is important. You want to let your dog recover by letting it relax, both mentally and physically. Throw a ball and do enjoyable things right away. Proper rest between workouts is the single most important part of recovery and is paramount to success.

For proper nutrition, adequate protein is crucial in a high-quality performance diet. Dietary protein should comprise about 24 to 40 percent of the total kilocalories (energy) and should be highly digestible. If a diet does not contain enough protein, muscle mass may be depleted, increasing the risk of soft tissue injuries, and immune function may be impaired.

Fat is the most important energy nutrient for work. Dogs fed a high fat diet can run further faster than those fed a low-fat diet. Carbohydrates are important for maximum energy output, especially when a dog is performing events over several days.

Ultimately, taking time to properly feed and condition your sporting dog is critical. Your dog is more likely to perform to its potential, and you are more likely to have an enjoyable event and very positive results…like a safe productive day while hunting or enduring to win an event.

The problem with finding ways to exercise your dog is that his needs quickly go beyond any program you can do together, such as going for walks. Allowing your dog to run free and exercise is a good idea but unless you’re spending hours and hours at it, your dog really isn’t benefiting to the extent you need to prepare him for hunting or competition. So we have to be creative in finding ways our dogs can safely work, exercise and gain endurance.

One simple idea is attaching a lead to the dog’s harness, allowing you to hold back, adding resistance as your dog pulls forward. Another might be using the same harness and attaching weights, like cable or chain to the harness, so that as the dog moves forward the weight drags safely alongside, causing extra resistance–i.e., more work in a given amount of time.

Some folks use chains connected to bungee cords snapped to each side of the “roading” harness, then they allow the dog to run freely through varied cover, terrain, and soil composition. The goal with this type of low level resistance is not only the advantage of working several muscle groups in one workout as the dog travels up, down and around hills and cover; there’s also the advantage of varied resistance on the dragging weight. In addition, we have the added benefit of toughening pads as they are conditioned by the soil, rock, and harsh ground cover.

Many of us have seen people attach their dog’s harness to a bicycle, letting the dog pull them along. This might be safe for the dog, but I wouldn’t give odds on the trainer if the dog spots a distraction–say, a cat in a neighbor’s yard–and makes a sudden lunge at it.

For those of you who own a four-wheeler, this is probably a safer alternative for all involved. You can set up outriggers to attach a line to the dog’s harness, being sure to keep the line short enough not to allow the dog near the wheels. Using a four-wheeler allows you to apply resistance or move to LSD workouts by controlling the dog’s speed in combination with the four-wheeler’s speed.

Swimming is another great form of exercise, especially helpful as a low impact form of LSD work that really benefits cardiovascular systems. Most dogs will follow when you paddle ahead in a canoe, and you can easily build to whatever length of time you feel meets you dog’s level of endurance. It’s especially good for hot summer days, but you still have to pay close attention to overheating, especially in shallow water where surface temps are surprisingly high.

If you don’t have a boat or canoe you might do repeated retrieving drills, but remember this might be a good deal more strenuous than simply swimming. Here again, be cautious of heat stress.

These ideas will be enough to get you started, but remember to keep it fun for you and the dog. Be creative and mix in training exercises to keep things in a positive productive mode. Also, as we recommended last time, before starting any exercise program get your dog in to your veterinarian for a checkup and be sure to let the vet know your plans.

Article Source: todayslocalnews.com
By Arden Moore

Training a dog can be child’s play. Many professional dog trainers report that their best students are children and teenagers.

It makes sense. Children and puppies possess wonderful young minds that soak up learning like sponges. In dog training classes, children learn to succeed. They gain confidence by being able to show off tricks they taught their dog. It’s definitely a win-win for dogs and kids.

Recently, I was invited to speak to a group of cool kids enrolled at the day camp at Escondido Humane Society. When I arrived, the children (between 6 and 11) were all sitting on the floor in anticipation — along with a lovable yellow Labrador named Sunny, a 6-year-old dog belonging to the class instructor, Ina Shookoff.

Our topic was bringing out the best in our dogs using a surefire motivator — healthy treats. Sunny happily heeded my cues to watch me, sit and stay because he quickly grasped my “treats for tricks” philosophy.

The children were eager to learn the ABCs of meeting a dog. First, “A” for ask permission. Next, “B” for be sniffed by slowly offering the back of the hand for the dog to smell, and finally, “C” for be careful to stroke the dog’s back and not tap-tap-tap on the head.

Next up: food bowl advice. The children quickly equated the importance of serving the right food in the right amounts to their dogs to keep them from turning into hairy, four-legged ottomans.

They began shouting out what the first ingredients of any quality pet food should contain: beef, chicken or fish. They quickly raised their hands to deliver the right answer when it comes to portions — use a measuring cup so you can truly know how much chow your canine is receiving.

I love working with young audiences — they keep me on my toes and amaze me with their abilities. Children between the ages of 9 and 15 make the best students in dog training classes because they are the most open to learning.

Adults often have too many bad habits to break, or they become too goal-oriented. My training friends tell me that it can be challenging to show adult students a new way to teach their puppies or dogs to sit and stay.

The competitive nature also surfaces sometimes in classes with some adults wanting their dogs not only to learn the commands but also to be the best. That puts undue pressure on a dog and can interfere with effective training.

Another plus for young students: great eye-hand coordination and timing. In clicker training, you learn to press a small metal device to make a clicking sound each time your dog does the right step. You immediately follow that sound with a small treat to reinforce his actions. The timing of the click is essential. Adults may be a little slow with the clicking sound, but children possess good eye-hand coordination, thanks in part to their video game skills. They usually manage to click on cue.

I know a 9-year-old named Kim who enrolled in a clicker-training puppy class with her dachshund, Bogart. The trainer in charge told me that Kim ranked top in her class, which included mostly adults. Kim even surprised her mom by getting Bogart to heed basic commands like sit, stay and settle during the first day of clicker-training class.

Now Kim and Bogart have advanced to work on new commands and fun tricks, and their confidence levels rise with each success.

Your children represent the next generation of the pet-loving public, so encourage them to join you in your dog’s training classes. Then sit back and witness the maturity growth in your children and your dogs. Now, that’s the best definition of child’s play.

Article Source: dogchannel.com

“Greatest American Dog” judge Allan Reznik offers tips to build a strong relationship.

The weekly competitions on the CBS reality show “Greatest American Dog” are meant to be fun. Bonding with your dog can be just as rewarding, Allan Reznik explains.

“Building a happy, harmonious relationship with your dog is critically important,” said Reznik, a judge on the show and editor-at-large of DOG FANCY. “It starts the minute your new family member enters your home and life.”

Here are some tips to maximize the relationship-building process.

DO:

Continue the early training and socialization begun by your puppy’s breeder. If your dog has been regularly groomed, had his nails clipped and been taught by the breeder to spend brief periods of time in a crate, keep up that routine. It takes just a few days of “no rules” for many dogs to forget the good habits they learned early in life.

Be consistent in your training. If you don’t like dogs on your furniture, don’t let your puppy on the sofa. If you don’t want your good shoes chewed up, don’t let him play with your grubby tennis shoes.

Enroll in a puppy kindergarten or basic obedience class. It’s a great opportunity for socialization. It also gives dogs and owners confidence and experience shutting out distractions and working together.

DON’T:

Try to train when you’re feeling tired or frustrated. You will accomplish nothing positive.

Let other family members give the dog mixed messages. Using different words for the same command or sneaking food to the dog from the table confuses the dog and undermines training.

Be lazy and postpone training. You accepted the responsibilities of dog ownership as well as the fun. There is already a lot of anti-dog sentiment out in the world today. Each of us needs to show by example that a well-behaved dog is a joy to have around and an asset to every neighborhood.

Source from: 2.7online.com

By Elizabeth Wasserman

Dock diving — jumping off a dock into a body of water — is something you might think a water-loving dog would do at a lake on a hot summer day, but it’s actually a certified canine sport. Tournaments have even been broadcast on ESPN, with champion dog divers breaking world records for the canine with the longest leap from a dock into a pool or other body of water.

Your dog doesn’t have to be the next swimming superstar to splash in on the fun, however. A quiet afternoon doggie paddle can be just as enjoyable and rewarding. “Water is an excellent means of exercising your dog,” says Deborah Lee Miller-Riley, founder and director of Connecticut-based Canine Water Sports, which teaches dogs to swim and hosts water-based competitions, including such feats as retrieving submerged articles and towing a swimmer on a life ring.

Natural Olympians, or Not
A lot of dogs are naturally great swimmers. Some breeds come by that skill due to centuries of training. Retrievers have been bred to retrieve birds from water for hunters. Portuguese water dogs used to carry messages between boats in the days before cellular and satellite communications. But not all dogs instinctually take to the water. Some excellent paddlers, as with humans, have actually had to hone those skills with swimming lessons. Keep the following in mind, therefore, before unleashing your dog into the water.

The Importance of Water Safety
In addition to exercise, teaching your dog to swim is an important safety precaution. Scores of pets drown each year in water-related accidents. If your backyard has a pool, or if you take your dog out on your boat, get your pup to feel comfortable around water. You can teach it to swim — and to get out of the water. “A dog is not going to know how to exit on its own,” says Lisa Peterson, spokeswoman for the American Kennel Club.

Dogs can be trained to swim around the perimeter of a pool to find the exit, says Fred Hassen, CEO of Sit Means Stay, a dog-training business with 64 locations in the U.S. and Canada. “A lot of people teach dogs to come to you,” Hassen says. “The problem is if you put the dog in the deep end and you stand there, the dog would keep swimming in the deep end trying to get to you.” Hassen’s method involves training a dog to swim around the pool looking for stairs or a ladder to get out — no matter where its owner is.

To teach your dog to climb a ladder — be it in a pool or off the side of a boat –place your dog’s front paws on the ladder and then help it up with its hind paws. Entice your pet to climb with a treat. “It’s important to make it a confidence-building experience so the dog is not stressed or traumatized,” he says.

How to Teach Your Dog to Swim
Just like a child who takes swimming lessons, a canine needs to gain confidence before it can swim comfortably on its own, experts say. Here are five steps to getting your dog’s paws wet:

1. Start with water exposure Get your pup used to water with a spray bottle, a hose or a shallow plastic pool, Hassen says. This ensures that it gets accustomed to the feeling of water.

2. Start at a pool or lake with a gradual slope Your first lessons should take place in a body of water in which your pet can gradually walk in the water with you, Peterson advises. You can promote a positive attitude by bringing toys, such as a ball, and encouraging your dog to retrieve.

3. Move into deeper water with your support As you move into deeper water, support your dog’s backside or belly to help it learn that it can float as it paddles with its paws. Hassen says it’s important that the dog learns to “level out” its torso to actually swim in the water.

4. Help your pup find the exit Once your dog is in the water, make sure it follows your commands to find the exit — be it from a swimming pool or into a boat. Hassen suggests leading the dog gently on a leash.

5. Don’t overdo it Dogs that have not swum a lot before don’t necessarily have the muscle conditioning for a strenuous swim. “If your dog never swam for more than five minutes before, don’t ask it to swim out a mile to a raft where you’re going,” Peterson says. “The dog may be too tired to swim back in.”

Safe Places for Your Pet to Swim
If you’re taking your dog out on a boat, fit your pup with a life vest, experts say. You never know when the boat may hit a bump and the dog may end up overboard. Also, keep in mind that swimming is exercise, and on hot days in particular, you need to keep your pet hydrated with fresh water.

Given the right precautions, there is a wide variety of safe places for your pet to do the doggie paddle — or something more befitting of a canine athlete. For dock diving, organizations such as Dock Dogs and Splash Dogs hold competitions around the United States. A number of canine spas and private trainers will also help introduce your pup to the water and get it accustomed to going for a swim. Dog clubs additionally offer options to help you and your pet learn the joys of taking a dip in the water — or competing to be top dog.

“It’s a nice opportunity for dogs to have a pleasurable event,” says Miller-Riley, of Canine Water Sports, “and to exercise without as much damage to their joints as they might get on land.” Since you can enjoy these benefits, too, your dog will likely turn out to be your best exercise and sports buddy this summer.