DogTrainster.Com

Article Source: examiner.com
Article by: Keith Smith

It seems everywhere I go these days all I hear about is how you must physically dominate a dog to make him behave. I see these very common training practices of yanking dogs around on a choke chain and calling it training. These same people call the choke chain a “training collar”. I have a challenge for these people. Grab a friend and have them put a “training collar” on you. Now ask them to attach a lead and give a nice firm yank. Do you still believe it is a “training collar”?

Next ask them to yank on the lead every time you say “training collar”. I bet after a few times you stop saying those words. And not because you like your friend but because you are afraid to feel that dreadful yank again. You may even attain enlightenment and begin calling it for what it actually is, a choke chain! Choke chains are dangerous!

Choke chains, shock collars and other professed training tools are merely used as shortcuts by people who have yet to genuinely and compassionately comprehend the intricate workings of dog behavior.

Another thorn in my side are the people who believe that pretending to be Hulk Hogan and pinning a dog to the ground or using similar physical practices somehow makes them respect you. It will certainly make the dog fear you. Fear is not respect! In case you did not read that right, fear is not respect! Respect is a dog looking intently into your eyes, tail wagging and ear’s perky thinking with reserved anticipation “what should I do now”.

The goal in training is to develop the relationship using trust and motivation, not fear and desperation!
“Dog people are wonderful people,” Cherry said. “They will help new dog owners get off to a good start and advance in their training.”

She also stressed the importance of exercising dogs.

“A 30-minute brisk walk every day is good for the person and good for the dog,” Cherry said. “Knowing my dogs need a walk encourages me to get up every morning and get some exercise with them.”

Cherry assures puppy owners that if they spend time with their puppies, take their puppies to obedience classes and do the homework, they’ll have a good dog by age 2.

“Good behavior kind of clicks when a dog is 2. The dog settles down, and some of the puppy problems stop. If you can make it until the dog is 2, you’ll have a good dog for the rest of his life.”

Article Source: examiner.com
By: Jeff Millman

Halloween is a great opportunity for dog training. The uniqueness of the holiday provides some dog training experiences that you can take advantage of to help your dog get to the next level in his socialization and guest manners skills.

Socialize Your Puppy
Halloween is a prime opportunity to expose your puppy to new and interesting sights and sounds. Bring treats with you on every walk and say, “Yes!” or ‘Click and Treat’ every time your puppy sees halloween decorations, hears ghoulish sounds or meets trick-or-treaters.

Remember, with socialization it is critical that your puppy is not showing signs of fear or you are going too quickly. When a puppy stops taking treats, that is a sure sign of fear. Move him or her farther away and give treats from this new distance.

Doorbell Desensitization
Trick or treaters provide a perfect opportunity to teach a dog to be calm when the doorbell rings.

Keep some treats in your pockets in anticipation of the little ghosts and goblins and practice this doorbell desensitization exercise:

* AS SOON as the doorbell rings, say, “Yes!” or ‘Click’ (if you are using a clicker) and drop treats on the ground
* As you notice that your dog’s reactivity lessens throughout the evening (he might even start sniffing the ground after the doorbell!!) start talking to him more before giving treats
* By the end of the evening, try and walk him calmly to the door and have him sit after each ring
* Practice walking him to the door and sitting periodically between visitors to give him more practice

Have a Safe Place for Candy
It is easy to lose track of your child’s bounty after a long night of trick or treating. Make sure to help your kids put the candy in safe place to avoid making your dog sick (or worse) after ingesting candy.

Chocolate, macadamia nuts, raisins, and grapes are really bad for dogs and could prove fatal.

Wrappings can also cause intestinal problems.

Article Source: examiner.com
Article by: Keith Smith

Everyone loves a cute little puppy, that sweet puppy face, the puppy smell, and those adorable eyes. But what about the poop, stolen shoes, shredded paper and chewed furniture. Adopting an adult dog certainly has its benefits. The old myth that “you can’t teach an old dog new tricks” is just that, a myth.

Shelter dogs make great pets. They are sometimes partially trained, usually at least housebroken, often past the stages of puppy destruction and normally very thankful for their new chance at life. They will express their thanks in their uncompromising devotion and unconditional love. Just imagine coming home everyday to a dog that is so thankful for the home you have shared you can simply glance over and see it in his eyes.

So what does it take to train a shelter dog? Often not much, but take into consideration how long they have been cooped up in a tiny room, the conditions they were kept in, their age and the often lack of stimulation and human interaction. Many shelters do their best to keep the dogs happy and healthy but it is often impossible to provide for all of their needs.

As with all training patience is one of the most important points to remember. Without it you will become stressed. When you are stressed your dog will be stressed. At that point training becomes futile. There is no one correct way to train. As long as the methods are humane and safe anything goes. If a method you are trying (even if it worked for you in the past) is not successful don’t be afraid to try something else. The first areas I recommend working on are, of course, the relationship between you and your dog followed by the relationship between your dog and others. That means socializing, lots and lots of socializing. If your new pal has been in contact with a mere handful of humans in the past six months it is unfair to ask him to sit like a good boy after only being home for two days and meeting your friends.

Article Source: examiner.com
Article by: Emily Randolph

One of the most valuable things I learned about dog training when I ‘studied’ under Dima Yeremenko in London is how to be a good teacher to your dog. Many of you are likely paw-deep in training right now, as the weather conditions are perfect! Yeah for living in Scottsdale, where the sun is always shining! (For those of your reading in cooler climes, sorry for gloating…) Grab those leashes, get out there and have some fun!

Here are the golden rules of being a good teacher as taken from Dima’s Dog School: The Foolproof New Way to Train Your Dog.

* Use Your Dog’s Name. It is important to ‘condition-use’ your dog’s name to the required task. There is no point in trying to come up with some other name or nickname if he’s never heard it before in training. If you are calling your dog ‘Suzy,’ don’t call her ‘Suz,’ or Sweetie-pie, or anything else. Stick to one name only. Much later you can start adding in variations as her vocabulary expands. But in the beginning, keep it simple.
* Follow Your Dog’s Name With a Command. It is also important to follow your dog’s name with a command or suitable gesture. It sounds obvious but many of us call our dogs without actually asking them to do something, and then we get frustrated that they didn’t read our minds and do it! So do you and your dog a favor and ask him properly for the command you wish. ‘Barney, roll over!’
* Be Consistent in Your Commands and Signals. Don’t make up different words and signals for the same thing. Your gesture and command for ‘sit’ for instance, should always be the same. It doesn’t matter what they are, as long as you use them consistently. ‘Burt, down!’ Will be far more effective than ‘Burt, dear, please lie down for mommy.’
* Be Consistent in Giving Rewards. Especially in the early stages, you’ll need to give your dog a reward for every correct response he gives, and sometimes just for half a response or even an intention to do it. Only later, when he has a firm grasp of your commands, can you begin to treat less often.
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Be Proactive, Not Reactive. The more organized and knowledgeable you are about the behavior of dogs, the problems that arise, and the solutions that are available to you, the better prepared you will be to handle new training issues. Dogs change over time, especially while they are growing. Males, for instance, often begin to show domineering behavior. But if you are aware of this and know beforehand what to do when you see such behavior, you will be better equipped to tackle the problem swiftly.

The key is to prevent bad habits from forming is to get on top of them early.

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It is much harder to break a dog of a bad habit than to stop it from happening in the first place, before it has become a learned behavior/response.
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Watch Your Body Language. When you are asking your dog to do something, make sure your body language makes sense. For instance, when you are first teaching your dog to sit-stay, don’t go play with another dog. Wait until he knows how to sit-stay and then you can use such tricks later for distraction training.
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Be Persistent in Your Training. It’s not good enough to ask your dog to do something one day and mean it, and then another day, not to mean it. You aren’t communicating to him well if you do this. ‘Harry, stay!’ should always mean ‘Harry, stay’ and not Harry can ignore you and go drink from his water bowl. If you aren’t going to be able to follow through on a command, then don’t ask!
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Be Precise in Your Timing. Immediately after your dog responds in some way to your command, you must be ready to deliver an appropriate response to educate him how best to respond to the command in the future.

You’ll probably achieve a 99% success rate if you react in the first couple of seconds after he responds; 50-60% if you acknowledge his actions three to five seconds later; and somewhere between 0-20% if you react ten seconds afterward.

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Command with Confidence.  Just as we don’t respect a weak boss, so we must not appear weak or unconfident to our dogs. A strong voice is always helpful, but it doesn’t have to be loud to be commanding. Your dog won’t learn better just because you are saying it louder.
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Never Give Up! Sometimes we get frustrated because our dogs might not pick up on a new command right away – or he understands, just doesn’t want to do it. Be patient and search for creative solutions. Training dogs is about teaching. Find a way to encourage and motivate him.
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Be Kind at All Times. Never EVER loose your temper with your dog. Training by fear is no way to treat your best friend. It is cruel, abusive and not conducive to establishing a wonderful loving bond between the two of you.  Don’t do it, end of conversation. Instead…
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Make Training Fun. If it’s all work, work, work, where’s the pleasure and motivation for you and your dog? Training is about building a positive relationship between the two of you. Doing endless drills will not endear him to you. Break up training with games, which can be instructional, too, of course.  Hide-and-seek is a great game to play to teach the ‘come’ command. While your dog isn’t looking, go hide somewhere (someplace not too difficult to start with) and call your dog, ‘Harvey, come!’ When Harvey finds you, give him a big reward! Make a huge fuss over him! Make it a party. He will love it and be learning at the same time. Fun for you and him.

Happy Training!

Article Source: examiner.com
Article by: Emily Randolph

I woke up this morning filled with all the excitement and energy that the thought of a new year provokes. Still lying in bed, I got a phone call from a good friend, giving my morning a perfect start. I was just finishing up the call, still lazing in bed, when my happy little bubble burst with the familiar sound of one my dogs (who shall remain nameless to protect the guilty) vomiting. On my bed. All over the covers. The covers that I had just washed yesterday!

This event, I confess, hasn’t been the first by a long stretch in 13 years of dog ownership, and it triggered an unlikely discussion with myself on the first day of this new year. I was reminded of a conversation that my brother and his wife had standing in my kitchen this very Christmas. Perhaps you have heard a version of it yourself. My brother is a big dog lover but they have four dogs of various sizes and even though the bed is a king size… well, you know what the argument was. He wants the dogs off the bed, while she wants to keep at least one, darling little Ginger (pictured), as they keep one another’s backs warm. A solid argument, I should point out! I was in my sister-in-law’s corner, ribbing my brother for his selfishness. Except, I could hear it was causing problems in the marital bed. While many of the dog mad amongst you, including myself, can’t help but think my brother should just sleep somewhere else (as in the proverbial dog house), well, that just isn’t in the cards.

I called my sister-in-law this morning and discovered ‘the dog in the bed’ discussion is still going on. She, too, is sick of doing extra washes from dog accidents and dirty paw prints. Recently, she even went out and bought brand new decorative bed covers that she will put on only when she is showing the house when it goes on the market this winter because the old ones are, well, dog-eared. But, she adores her dogs and loves to cuddle with them at night. She is badly torn over the issue.

If the ‘dog in the bed’ is an issue in your home, here are some other considerations:

Alpha dog?
How well behaved is your dog? Are you the alpha dog or is she running your household? If the answer is the latter, then there is very good cause for having your dog sleep in her own bed – at least until you have achieved dominance. There can be significant territorial issues that develop if you are not the top dog.

Remember, as the alpha dog, you decide the rules and you have to stick with them. Consistency is key. For instance, your dog will only be confused if you allow her on the sofa one day but yell at her for sleeping on the sofa on another. She won’t know what you want. If your rules are clear, then your dog will not be confused. It’s that simple.

Training tips for relocating your dogs to their beds:

1. Give your dog a comfy bed of her own that you know she will like. Place it near your own bed. Give her a reason to want to use the bed. Give her her favorite toy, a new toy or treat, place it on the bed and call her there. Tell her to ‘lie down’ and ‘stay,’ and reward her when she does.
2. Absolutely DO NOT CAVE and let her get back into bed with you. If you do, she will understand that she can push her boundaries and win. This is what you will have communicated. It will make all future training more challenging. Don’t do it!
3. Praise all her good behavior with treats and praise.

If you are having aggression and behavioral difficulties with your dog, please see your vet first to rule out any possible health issues, before speaking to a behaviorist.

Sleeping well?
Another consideration: how well are you sleeping with a dog(s) in your bed. Sleep studies show that small disturbances at night keep us from a good night’s rest more than we realize. According to a recent published survey of 300 sleep disorder patients conducted at the Mayo Clinic Sleep Disorders Center, nearly 60 percent of the pet owners in the study slept with their pets in the bedroom. Twenty-two percent of the patients had pets sleeping on the bed with them. Fifty-three percent felt their sleep was disturbed. Apparently, many dogs (and cats) snore, awakening their owners. (Webvet.com)

Allergies?
Do you suffer from allergies? I am susceptible to the usual pollens, and dog’s hair, just like ours, attracts allergens to the oils in their coats. So, even if I have taken a shower and washed my hair to get a better night’s sleep with fewer allergies, I’m still getting a heavy dose of dust and pollen from my dogs’ hair.

So, with a heavy heart, I have concluded that in my personal circumstances, I need to make a change. While there isn’t anything better than having one of my dogs draped over my arm at night, I confess I don’t sleep that well – and this particular dog (again, no names to protect the guilty) snores. The other dog likes to blockade my legs so that I can’t move and I only have six inches of bed space – on a king size bed! This coupled with the extra loads of laundry and allergies, has pressed me make a New Year’s resolution. I talked it over with the dogs on our morning walk and while there were plenty of moans and groans and even some whining, we have come up with a compromise. They will sleep in their own beds at night… and in the morning, if I feel like it, they can come up for a snuggle. I’m hoping this will give us all a better night’s sleep, and I can save on laundry detergent and allergy meds.

Being an absolute pushover, we’ll see how long this resolution lasts! Watch this space.

Article Source: examiner.com
Article by: Casey Cavalier

Either while traveling - or for every day life - the dog crate can be a great source of security and comfort for your dog.

There are two popular types of crate, a plastic travel kennel and a collapsable metal crate. You’ll know you have the right size crate if your dog can enter, stand up and turn around. There should not be so much room in the crate that your dog has extra space to sleep at one end or the other. He or she should be comfortable and that’s about it.

Bigger is not better when it comes to selecting a crate, so be sure to follow directions or ask for a store clerk’s assistance.

My dogs can spend 4-6 hours in a crate while I am out of the house. They have spent longer periods of time, but it is important to walk them before and after their stint in the crate. They should also be free to roam for the remainder of the day or evening once they are out of the crate.

I would be hesitant to crate my dogs for 8-hours a day, every day unless they were particularly resiliant and I was dedicated to walking them without fail, in exchange for their time spent confined.

Using a crate while traveling is often a necessity, and beginning the crate training process far in advance of your dog’s first trip is essential. Gradually build your dog’s time spent in the crate and never use a crate as a means of punishment.

Article Source: sacbee.com
Article by: Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

Adopting an adult dog from a shelter is a wonderful thing to do. But sometimes people are hesitant to try it because they worry their new pet won’t be reliable in the house and can’t be made so because of the myth that “old dogs can’t learn new tricks.”

If you’re stalling on adoption or are already struggling with an adult dog that doesn’t seem to “get it,” take heart: You can teach an adult dog to do his business outside.

Before you start training, though, you must be sure that what you have is a behavior problem and not a physical problem. This is especially true with a dog that has been reliable in the past. You won’t be able to train your pet if it is struggling with an illness. So check with your veterinarian first for a complete checkup.

If you’ve ruled out medical problems, house-training an adult dog uses the same principles as house-training a puppy, except you have to be even more diligent because you need to do some “untraining,” too.

And a lot of cleaning: You must thoroughly clean any soiled area with enzymatic cleaner (available through pet-supply outlets) to eliminate the smell that invites repeat business.

You’ll need to teach your dog what’s right before you can correct him for what’s wrong. To do this, spend a couple of weeks ensuring that he has nothing but successes by never giving him the opportunity to make a mistake.

Here’s how:

• Leash him to you in the house so you can monitor his every move during his training period. If he starts to mess, tell him “no,” take him outside and give him a command for going (”hurry up,” “go potty,” etc.). Then praise him for doing right, so he starts to understand what you want.

• Put him in a crate whenever he’s not on leash with you. It’s not unfair during training to leave him in a crate for four or five hours at a stretch – assuming, of course, that he’s getting his regular daily exercise.

• Take him outside first thing in the morning, as soon as you get home from work and just before you go to bed (when you put him in his crate for the night). Always remember to give your “go” command, and praise him when he does as you wish. I find that people never seem shy about punishing their dogs, but too often forget to praise them – they take it for granted that the dog should do the right thing.

Never, ever forget the praise! If you’ve been consistent, your dog likely will get a good idea of what’s expected of him within a couple of weeks, and you can start giving him a little freedom. Don’t let him have the run of the house yet. Keep his area small, and let him earn the house, room by room, as he proves his understanding of the house rules.

Accidents happen. If you catch him in the act, tell him “no,” take him outside and give him the chance to set things right. Give your “go” command, and praise him if he does. Clean up the mess inside promptly and thoroughly, so he won’t feel inclined to refresh his smell there. Don’t punish him for any messes you find.

If you aren’t catching him, you’re not keeping close enough tabs on him. Go back to the crate and leash, and start over.

If you continue to have problems, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. One-on-one assistance can pinpoint the problems in your training regimen and get you both on the right track.

Article Source: burnsidenews.com

Caring for your new dog: a guide for adopters

Obedience Training

After veterinarian care, obedience should be your next priority. Obedience training has come a long way in the last 10 years.

First and foremost, training should never hurt or frighten your dog. A dog that’s trained using harsh methods will develop an array of behaviour problems and insecurities while learning you can’t always be trusted. This will be detrimental in the development of your relationship.

Professional obedience instructors who teach using positive reinforcement methods have the skills to help you and your new companion learn how to interact while developing a trusting relationship that will make your dog a favourite of family members, friends and neighbours.

Dogs are as individual as humans. Your obedience instructor should work with your family to develop a curriculum that will work best for you and your dog.

Most owners find the use of food and praise to be the easiest way to start. However, as you and your dog get to know one another, your dog may be more motivated to work for a variety of rewards such as playing or being patted.

Obedience classes can vary greatly from larger class sizes with multiple instructors, to smaller more intimate groups or personal one-on-one instruction in a class-type setting or in your own home. Many factors will determine which obedience classes are right for you, including location, time, cost and the personality of you and your dog.

• Larger class sizes with multiple instructors: These classes are made up of larger groups of dogs and handlers and should have multiple instructors. A good ratio is one instructor for every three to five dog/handler teams. These classes are great for a person who hopes to allow their dog off-leash at dog parks or similar situations and gain a reliable recall (“come”) command. The larger class sizes simulate life-like scenarios where your dog will learn to avoid distractions and focus on you. Also, having multiple instructors to work with provides a wider variety of skills and knowledge at your fingertips.

• Smaller class sizes with one or two instructors: These classes still give you the benefits of training your dog around other dogs (one of the biggest distractions for most), but on a smaller scale. This can make it easier for handlers and dogs that are easily distracted, or for anxious dogs.

• One-on-one training: Whether it’s in a classroom or in your own home, receiving individual instruction gives you and your dog undivided attention and can really catapult your training. This type of training is great for owners who may be feeling a little unsure or need help correcting specific behaviours.

Crate Training

Crate training has many benefits when used appropriately. A dog “crate” is the general term for referring to a rectangular enclosure. Crates can be constructed of wire, metal, molded plastic or a combination of these materials. Be sure the crate is of adequate size. Most people with puppies will opt to buy a crate that will accommodate the dog when it is full grown, but can be partitioned off to help with house training when they’re young. A dog should be able to stand up straight, turn around and stretch out in their crate. A dog that’s properly crate trained will enjoy their crate throughout their lives and will use it for refuge from a busy household.

Crate training has several benefits, including:

• puppies and dogs that are being house trained to eliminate (urinate and defecate) outside are less likely to eliminate in their crate, unless left for inappropriate amounts of time or before the dog has had a chance to eliminate outside.

• dogs that damage household items during times they can’t be directly supervised cannot practice these behaviours in a crate.

• in cases of travel or illness, crates can be a necessity. A dog that has been trained to be comfortable in a crate is at an advantage in these situations.

• for dogs involved in dog sport functions such as agility and flyball, crates provide a much-needed resting spot during break times.

The crate’s location needs to be somewhere inside the house where the dog is comfortable. The location should be in a quiet space close to family areas, but just outside heavy traffic zones. Make it clear to all children living or visiting the house that the crate is not a “playpen” for them. However, you should get your dog used to people reaching in and out of the crate to avoid your dog guarding his crate.

While puppies (eight to 16 weeks) will normally adjust more quickly to crating since they are being introduced to this new world only a small portion at a time, crate training adult dogs should start in smaller steps.

If possible, have your crate purchased and set-up prior to bringing your new dog home for the first time. Secure the door open, so it can’t accidentally shut and frighten the dog. Encourage the dog to explore the crate by placing treats or toys in the crate and rewarding the dog with praise every time they go in the crate.

Feed the dog all their meals in the crate and start closing and latching the door, working up the time until their meal is done. Slowly increase the time they spend in the crate, perhaps during your suppertime or while going out to run errands.

A crate should never be used for punishment. It’s not recommended that any dog spend more than six consecutive hours at a time in a crate.

As many dogs mature or settle into family routines, regular crating may become unnecessary. If you think your dog is a good candidate for having unsupervised household access, start in with small steps. Leave your dog with limited access in the house while you do some activity close at hand, but out of the dog’s sight. Leave the dog for no more than a few minutes at a time, gradually increasing your absence to half days then full days when necessary.

House Training

Most adult dogs will catch on to the idea of house training with relative ease. Remember, human babies are usually not introduced to the idea of using a toilet until they are at least two-years-old. Furthermore, most human babies are not reliably toilet trained until they are around four-years-old. Even then, accidents will happen.

The age of your dog and any possible medical issues they may have will also affect your house training. Situations such as stress, change in diet, intestinal upset, intestinal parasites and urinary tract infections can make house training difficult to impossible. It’s important to talk to your veterinarian if you have these concerns.

When dealing with a puppy or a young dog, a good rule of thumb is to relate their age (in months) to the number of hours they’re physically capable of controlling their bladders and bowels. A puppy at two months should be capable of controlling their bladder for about two hours. A four-month old puppy can manage about four hours. If you have adopted a puppy or a young dog, there will be some time before you may be able to manage a full night’s sleep.

Just like every other aspect of your dog’s life, consistency is key when it comes to house training. The more consistent your feeding and walking schedule, as well as crate training (see Crate Training section for more information), the more successful you will be in house training your new dog.

• Designating a relief spot: When designating a relief spot, certain factors should be considered. Will this area be easily accessible all year round, including during the winter months? What about garden areas and walk ways? Once you have designated a relief spot take your dog on-leash to the designated toilet area. Stand quietly, so that the dog can sniff around. Most people may instruct, “Go do your business” or “potty time,” but do not repeat this request and distract the dog. Do not praise the dog during their search. If after about five minutes your dog hasn’t gone to the bathroom, return them to the house, keeping a close eye on them for about half an hour, then try again. Once your dog has completed their business outside, praise and make a fuss about how smart they are and, of course, don’t forget a treat!

• Good Morning!: When people wake up in the morning, their first stop is usually the bathroom. If another family member already has the bathroom occupied, we know how uncomfortable it can be to wait. Your dog will appreciate access to relieve himself as much as you do in the morning. Take your dog out to use the bathroom as soon as you can after you wake up.

• Scheduling: Create a schedule that’s practical for you to maintain. If you can’t stick to your schedule, you can’t expect the dog to adhere to it. Try to feed your new dog one to two hours before you have to leave them. This should provide your dog enough time to digest their breakfast and ensure they have an opportunity to use the bathroom before you leave for work.

Schedule your dog’s bedtime and waking-up time. Adhere to these times as closely as possible. If you have a puppy or young dog and will be away from your home for more than a few hours, you’ll need to arrange to have somebody come in to take the dog out to their designated relief spot.

Keep track of your dog’s routine. Some dogs will “potty” two or three times per outing in the morning, but only twice per outing in the evening. Even if the weather is foul, do not let your dog know that you don’t want to be going outside with them. By teaching your dog that even in bad weather going outside is “the thing to do,” they will be more willing to convey their needs to you.

• Supervision in the house: Any mistakes your dog makes while you’re at home are due to your inattention. You should always know where your dog is and what they’re doing. If you realize it’s almost time for a potty break, don’t delay by thinking “after I finish the laundry.” After the laundry may be too late and you’ll have missed an opportunity to positively reinforce your dog’s bathroom habits.

By observing your dog you will quickly learn to tell the difference between a dog exploring his new home and his searching for a location to relieve himself. If you can’t supervise the dog for a period of time, put the dog in a confined area such as a crate or room where you are. Have the dog on their leash if it will help. When you’re relaxing, watching TV, reading or on the computer, have your dog with you as well. Try giving your dog some of their toys to play with.

Article Source: examiner.com
By: Mare Sciavillo-Lopez

I mentioned the importance of socializing your dog briefly in an earlier column. Socializing is not only important for obtaining a comfortable grooming situation, it is also important for the dog

I was visiting our local pet store last week when their puppy training class was finishing for the evening. A beautiful eight-month-old standard poodle was being walked around the store by its owners. The first thing I noticed, right away, was its fear of quick movements. I got down on my knees and extended my hand out to him, palm up, and he relaxed a little. This is a big, strong dog; he will need a lot of work. His socialization should have started at an earlier age, but I was glad to see that the owners were on the right track.

Not only is a dog training class a good way for your dog to get comfortable around other dogs, it is also a great way for him to get comfortable around other people. If you attend a class, have everyone (before or after class) approach your dog and pet it, and have everyone let your dog sniff their dog. Of course, be safe.

Even if your dog ’s everyday life. Whether you acquire a puppy or an older dog, it is never too late to help him feel comfortable in public situations and around other dogs.”flunks” its first training class, you have still benefited him by taking him to this social event. If there are not classes available in your area, find a good dog park, (Immunization first) walk around your neighborhood or town and let your dog meet strangers and safely meet other dogs.

Article Source: wnrmag.com

Training leads to happier pets and a more comfortable home. Dogs, like most people, view relationships as a social hierarchy. If you are continually at your dog’s beck and call whenever he wants a treat, affection or play time, he will soon believe he is in charge. Training sets some ground rules so you can have fun with your dog without worrying about aggressive behavior.

Training also requires time, but it’s an investment that pays dividends over your long-term commitment. It strengthens your bond by providing both of you with the tools to communicate effectively with each other. An obedient dog is also a safer dog. A dog that knows to come immediately when called is in much less danger if he escapes onto a busy street or gets into a fight than one who doesn’t.

By training your dog, you take on the role of teacher. Just as with a child starting kindergarten, the teacher’s attitude determines the student’s success. During training sessions, it’s imperative that you maintain a positive attitude. If you’re grumpy, your dog will pick up on that and won’t learn to trust you. Obedience training is an exchange—good behavior for love and affection. If you don’t hold up your end of the bargain, neither will he.

Make sure to be patient and consistent. If you only enforce commands some of the time, you will only confuse him. If your actions teach him that you’re only serious about commands when it’s convenient for you, he will only follow them when it’s convenient for him!

Start training when your puppy is young. Just like people, this is when dogs’ minds are ripe for absorbing information and they want your approval. Also, teaching your dog good habits before he’s had time to learn bad ones is much more effective than shaping ingrained bad behaviors.

Here are some tips for resolving common behavioral problems

* Chewing

Although the difference between your leather recliner and your dog’s squeaky toy may be obvious to you, your pet can’t distinguish his toys from your possessions without training. To make matters more obvious to your pet, don’t dote on your dog by providing tons of toys. Too many toys makes it more complicated for your dog to remember what is and isn’t ok to chew. Keep it simple.

* Jumping on people

As much as you may love that your dog is excited when you come home, jumping on people is a problem, especially when your dog shows the same enthusiasm for people who may be afraid of dogs, or jumps on small children or seniors who are not tall enough or strong enough to withstand it. Dogs naturally jump to establish dominance, hierarchy and submission. The key to preventing this behavior lies in gently but clearly establishing that people are the boss. You need to react consistently and promptly. If you return your dog’s enthusiasm when he jumps on you, he’ll never understand the behavior is unacceptable. Instead, teach your dog to sit using treats as positive reinforcement. Every time he starts to jump, tell him firmly to sit, provide hand signals and give him a treat if he obeys. Slowly phase out the treats until sitting at your command becomes automatic.

* Constant barking

Dogs bark when they feel isolated, lonely, territorial or fearful. Don’t reinforce this behavior by giving him the attention he seeks. Instead, distract your dog from barking by dropping a few coins into an empty can and shaking it gently. This will surprise your dog and temporarily stop the barking. Then, reward him with affection and a treat for being quiet. React consistently because you make or break your dog’s behavior.

Training you and and your dog

Attending obedience classes with your dog, taking part in dog groups and clubs, or hiring a trainer is a fantastic way to get specific instructions on raising an obedient dog. Experienced trainers can ascertain individual needs of your family and your pet. Dog trainers and experienced pet owners also train people by giving hands-on demonstrations and feedback on techniques you can’t get from a book. To choose a trainer, ask for recommendations from your veterinarian or friends who have completed courses and enjoyed the experience. Ask to sit in on a class before signing up to make sure the training methods are positive. Local dog clubs, dog breeders and vets may also recommend websites for finding a trainer who is right for you and your pet.