DogTrainster.Com

Article Source: Examiner.com
By Jeff Millman

If you are a savvy trainer, you can teach your dog to do behaviors on cue that are initiated by a change in the environment that happens naturally or that is part of your normal daily pattern. Unless you are working on a sophisticated trick, the reason to implement this strategy is to alleviate the need to ask your dog to a cue. You will instead “ask” your dog to do the cue with your body or something else that happens naturally. This strategy can be extremely helpful to you and your family and can also make your dog’s life better by creating consistent expectations and house rules.

Often this strategy comes into play to help a dog stay safe or to teach your dog to do something automatically that you routinely ask her to do.

Examples of Environmental Cues

Sit at curbs. Why ask your dog to sit at curbs every time. Wouldn’t it be better if she sat every time you stopped walking?

Lie down when you sit down to eat. If you have a dog that bugs you when you are eating at the dinner table, wouldn’t it be great to teach her to lie down as soon as you sit down at the table?

Sit when a guest approaches. What a slick way to avoid this annoying dog behavior.

Do not run out of the gate when it is open. I have a client that has an amazing garden around the perimeter of his house. His gates open up to the street and he is often in and out of the gate working on his garden. I taught his dog to lie down before she crossed a certain point whether the gate was open or not. The only way she could cross a specific line was after she was given a cue by my client. This way, if he inadvertently left the gate open, she would not run out after him.

Lie down when you put your baby on the changing table. It is understandable that you want some space when you are changing diapers and that your dog might also be a bit interested in what is going on. What a great way to avoid problems.

See the pattern? I call these Environmental Cues because changes in the environment cue a dog to something. Your are part of the environment. So, if taught correctly, your behavior can cause yoru dog to do something that you want her to do — without even asking her! Cool!

Here is an example of how to teach a dog to lie down when she sees a baby get placed on a changing table. You can adapt this to anything that is helpful for your training needs.

Teach the Environmental Cue - Lie Down When Baby Gets Placed on Changing Table
This is a fairly complex task, but it can be fun if you break it down into small chunks. With any behavior, don’t worry about teaching the entire behavior in one session. It could take weeks or months before you can expect a reliable behavior. Speed of success depends on how much time you train, how good of a trainer you are, and how quickly your dog learns new behaviors. I recommend that you focus on being a good teacher each session. What this means is that you are completely focused on your dog. Turn off the phone, give your kids some coloring books and be a good teacher. It is not fair to your dog to expect great results if you are not putting in quality teaching time.

Besides using this for diaper changing situations, this is a great exercise to counteract begging at the table, pestering you or your guests during social gatherings and when you are trying to get some work done. To expect this to work during “real life” moments such as cooking, you must practice a lot before you add those distractions.

For baby situations, it is smart to identify a location in each room that you would like your dog to go to on occasion and work on each location separately. This a great way of pre-planning for times when you need a bit more space and need your dog to move away from the activity.

Please note: C/T means to either say, “Yes” and give a treat or ‘click’ and give a treat. Want to learn more about clicker training? Read my posts about What is Clicker Training? or How to Use the Clicker.

This is called a “chained behavior” and is a way to teach really complex tasks. This behavior has 4 links in the chain. When you say, “Go to bed” the links that your dog needs to understand are:

1. Find the bed
2. Walk over to the bed
3. Lie down
4. Stay

I use Backwards Chaining to teach this, so I actually teach steps 3 and 4 first. The rationale is that if you teach the final two links (Lie down and Stay) then when you add distance, point to the bed and say, “Go to bed” the dog has had a lot of repetition with lie down and stay, so once she starts walking towards the bed the links start falling into place. Once she is near the bed, she naturally lies down and stays because she has done those behaviors numerous times and the muscle memory kicks in to complete the behavior.

Even though there are 4 links in the chain, each link can have multiple steps. For instance, one of the links is Lie Down, but I first teach paw on the bed, sit on the bed, and then lie down on the bed. The main aspect to keep in mind is that you are teaching your dog to interact with the bed and helping her with each of the steps if she needs your help. Don’t worry if you have to help her do the behaviors such as “Sit” or “Down” by luring with a treat or saying the cue. Just make sure if you say a cue, you only say it once.

Step One
This is taught first using the leash. Stand right next to the dog bed, walk your dog over to the bed and every time she touches a paw on it, C/T. Say “off” every time you leave the mat and lead her off the mat.

Step Two
Then, increase the criteria and treat her for sitting on the bed. Walking on the bed becomes, “Good girl” and the C/T happens when she sits. Do five repetitions.

Step Three
Walk over to the bed and ask your dog to “Down” and C/T. So, putting her paw on the bed and sitting results in “Good Girl” and she gets a C/T for lying down.

Quick note: This is a tremendous mental exercise activity because your dog will have to figure out what you want her to do. Provide help in the form of asking her to “Sit” or “Down” only if she needs it. Many beginning trainers don’t realize that you can actually wait a dog out and see if she will figure out what is expected of her before you ask her. My rule of thumb is I will help a dog out if she doesn’t do the behavior in 3-5 seconds, or faster if she seems frustrated.

Step Four
After she is reliably lying down on the mat, stand next to it, point to it and say, “Go to your bed” (or whatever you would prefer) and point to the bed. Make sure that once you say the cue ONE TIME you get the behavior. If she doesn’t move there on her own, gently help her by luring her with a treat, guiding her with the leash, etc. Do multiple pairings of this and then increase the distance between you and the mat. Reward every time that your dog successfully goes to the mat and lies down. Eventually, you can move farther away, point to it and your dog will happily go to it and lie down.

Step Five
Stay is a separate component of this exercise and you can start working on it anytime after your dog lies down on her bed. After she lies down, , ask for “Stay” give verbal encouragement “Good girl, you are doing great, and periodically give her a treat. If she gets up, tell her that she shouldn’t get up yet, “Eh! Eh!” and ask her to lie down again and continue reinforcing her behavior with verbal praise and treats. At some point when she is firmly lying down, say, “OK” and lead her off the mat.

Note: For a solid “Stay” it is important that you release her when she is in the middle of the stay as opposed to just about to jump up. Get in the habit of releasing her before she wants to get up.

Step Six - Add the Environmental Cue
This is when it gets really interesting. I recommend expectant parents practice with a doll months before the baby arrives to have a really solid behavior when they really need it. To create a cue, you just need to teach your dog a pattern. In this case, you want your dog to go to her bed when she sees the baby placed on the changing table. So, put the doll on the changing table, wait a moment, turn to your dog and say, “Go to bed” and point to the bed. Wait a moment, and if she needs help, gently grab the leash and lead her over to the bed and C/T when she lies down. Repeat the act of placing the doll on the table until she does the behavior on her own.

Troubleshooting and Strategies

* Make sure you only say the cue ONCE, pause for a moment and then provide help, whether you ask your dog to Sit, Down, or Go to Bed. If you repeat cues, your dog will learn to ignore you.

* If there is a long delay after you say, “Go to Bed” before your dog starts moving towards the bed, do a few repetitions where you gently guide her over to the bed right after you say the cue. You will help initiate movement and muscle memory this way, so she reacts more quickly to the cue. Always use gentle guidance.

* Stop training before your dog wants to stop. One of the important strategies is to teach your dog to WANT to do behaviors. The best way to do this is to not overtrain. Stop training when she still wants to “play”. “What do you mean we are stopping? I was having fun getting attention and treats! Ask me to do something else!”

* Often dogs will lie down right next to the trainer instead of walking over to the bed. This occurs because the dog is used to getting a reward by lying at the person’s feet and has not made the connection with the need to go to a specific location. If your dog lies down next to you after you have said the cue, gently get her up, walk her over and reward her when she lies down. Next time if you see her start to lie down too soon, say, “Eh! Eh!” before she lies down and walk her over to the correct location.

* Give a lot of verbal encouragement for the beginning steps such as paw on the bed, and sitting, but stop treating once they do it reliably. You want your dog to “go to the next level” and be motivated to do more behaviors such as lying down or walking to the bed. “Good girl” is used to tell a dog that she is on the right track, but needs to do more for the treat.

* Combine this activity with finding Kongs or playing fetch. She will learn that good things happen when she lies down. You will increase the motivation of this behavior.

* Ask for this cue periodically throughout the day such as before walks, mealtimes or games. “Go to bed”. “Good girl, let’s go for a walk!” In this case, the walk is the reward and you have increased the motivation for her to perform this behavior.

* Work on adding multiple locations and naming each one. Examples include rug, bed, back door, fireplace, bedroom, etc.

Source from: examiner.com

By Jeff Millman

There are certain topics in dog training that come up at least once per day. I find myself saying “Change the pattern, change the behavior” in many situations and I realized that this is a powerful concept that you might find useful when working with your dog.

My dog training philosophy is based on changing a dog’s behavior, and not focusing on what the dog might be thinking. Many people fall into the trap of making assumptions about why the dog performed a certain behavior and then run the risk of basing their training strategies on murky hypotheses. Examples of murky hypotheses include:

* “My dog jumped on me because he was being dominant.”
* “My dog urinated on my bed because she was being spiteful.”
* “My dog bit me because he is trying to take charge.”

I get many questions about why dogs do things and I often say, “I don’t know, but I do know that your dog did the behavior. That we can all agree upon, so let’s start there.” Once you move past the “why” and focus on changing behavior, your world may very well open up to a whole new way of looking at animal behavior. Keep in mind that this is not limited to dogs. You can use these strategies on any animal, including the two-legged variety that roam freely around the streets.

Behaviors can be innate (hardwired) such as breathing, yawning or blinking, or they can be learned such as sitting for a treat or responding to one’s name. Often dog behavior problems such as jumping are rooted in learned behaviors over time. How does a dog learn? A dog, like any animal learns through repetition. A situation presents itself, the dog responds in a certain manner and there is a consequence to his actions. If he enjoys the consequence, then the motivation kicks in and he wants to do that again!

Examples of learned behaviors include:

* Dog puts paws on person’s leg, dog gets petted
* Dog barks at person, person moves away
* Puppy grabs sock and runs, person chases, dog has fun

In each of the previous examples, the dog interacted with the environment in a certain way and, in turn, the environment responded in a certain way.

* In the first example, the dog put paws on the person’s leg and he got petted. What happens if he is never, ever, ever allowed to put his paws on the person’s leg? He doesn’t have an opportunity to learn that this might result in getting petted.
* In the second example, what if the dog was kept at a distance where he never felt like barking and never learns that barking causes a person to move away?
* In the third example, what happens if  the puppy is never left alone near socks and never learns that grabbing a sock might result in a fantastic game of chase?

I can tell you with certainty what would happen. The dog would never have a chance to decide if the consequence of his actions are enjoyable and these behaviors would not become strong, well-rehearsed “habits”.

So, how do you use this information with your dog?

Stop behavior patterns quickly when you see them developing. Make sure that you think about what you do not want your dog to do. If you don’t want your dog to dig holes in your nice garden, watch him like a hawk and prevent him from ever learning that digging holes is fun. Stop him as quickly as possible when it does occur, and redirect his behavior into a more acceptable behavior such as playing fetch or playing tug. If you can’t watch him, bring him inside.

Manage your dog’s access to the environment. Don’t be an absentee trainer. If you can’t watch your dog, manage him in a crate or dog-proofed area so he doesn’t learn that the couch tastes yummy, or it is fun to bark out of the window all day long and build barrier frustration in the process.

Change the chain of events.
For a dog that jumps on guests, the current chain of events might look like this:

* Dog sees person
* Dog runs towards person
* Dog puts paws on person’s legs
* Dog play bites hands of person

My recommended chain events looks like this:

* Dog sees person
* Dog doesn’t jump
* Dog sits to get petted

How to you change the pattern? First of all you need to stop the undesired chain of events from “going down the wrong path”. In this example, the situation degrades when the dog starts running towards the person, so that is where the focus should be placed. To prevent this from happening, the easiest thing to do is to have the dog on leash and prevent the dog from learning that he can run to the person and then jump and then get petted.

Friendly guests can derail great training by petting a dog for jumping. So, you need to take charge and make sure your dog never learns to do this behavior.

Do this:

* Have your dog on leash
* AS SOON as he sees your guest say, “Yes” or ‘click’ if you are using a clicker and give him a treat
* Move him a bit farther away if he is too interested in the events in front of him and continue the exercise
* As his interest moves from the events in front of him to getting a tasty treat, you can try and drop the leash (it is still attached to his collar) and continue working
* If that is too much for him, pick up the leash and try again
* At this point you can also ask for a “Sit” and reward that by giving a treat and also allowing your guest to come closer for petting
* If your dog jumps at this point, move him away and continue the exercise
* You can also redirect his attention by tossing his favorite toy down the hallway as soon as he sees your guests so he chases the toy instead of jumping on your guests

If you focus on stopping the chain of events before your dog starts the inappropriate behavior, you can change an infinite amount of behaviors including barking, digging, destruction, and even aggression.

Source from: canada.com

By Joan Klucha

As a trainer for over 15 years I have been fortunate to work with a wide range and number of dogs.

This time in the saddle, so to speak, has given me the opportunity to observe similar patterns in canine behaviour. These patterns of behaviour are not the equivalent to wild dogs or wolf behaviour but are actually behaviours you would never see a wild dog or wolf express in their natural environment. These behavioural patterns are a direct result of human interaction and handling.

One very common pattern is the “All about me” complex. These dogs have had a great deal of coddling, fussing, and cuddling as puppies, given whatever their whining and jumping has gotten them as adolescents and as adults they are obnoxious, demanding, and often labelled as out-of-control, as they have little or no time for training. They are the epitome of the spoiled child that throws a temper tantrum the first time their parents say the word “No!”

Owners of the “all about me” dogs are often confused about why their dogs are so “bad.” When in fact the dogs aren’t bad at all, they have simply been given far too many liberties and freedom and very few boundaries and limitations. This is because the owners have allowed their emotions to get involved with the training of their dogs.

When it comes to training dogs, there is no place for emotion. Emotions give dogs confusing messages about our intent because we are often confused about our intent. As a result the dog sees us as an unstable leader incapable of controlling a situation and they take over, often reluctantly.

An example of emotional training is when a dog is asked to sit. The dog refuses by ignoring the command, which in many circumstances is a natural first time response. The owner then raises the voice and the dog begins to show a healthy and normal submissive gesture towards the human by dropping its ears and tail. The resulting emotion from the human is that they have either scared their dog or have hurt their feelings somehow and thus discontinue the training. The dog then learns very quickly how to manipulate the situation and continues to defy the owner’s direction and play on the emotions of the human.

The appropriate step would be to ignore the dog’s attempts to manipulate the situation, but not ignore the dog and discipline the dog by forcing a sit. The dog then learns that there are consequences for its behaviour and is more likely to comply the next time to avoid the conflict of discipline and to incite praise and affection from the owner.

I want to stress that I am not advocating punishment. Punishment and discipline are two completely different things. Discipline means a form of consistent training that produces obedience and self control. Punishment implies severe treatment as a penalty for an offense.

In some cases the problem with a dog’s behaviour may not be as a result of over-affectionate owners but because the dog has not had any adequate dog-to-dog discipline. You are a lucky person these days if your puppy is raised by its natural mother and the mother understood the value of discipline.

But often this is not the case. Puppies are brought home early and then encouraged to limit dog-to-dog interaction due to fear of disease. As a result the puppies miss a valuable stage of learning that can only be had by interacting with other dogs at that particular period of their lives. The result is an adult that confuses other dogs with their lack of self control and often instigates conflict due to a lack of social cues.

Discipline should not be overlooked when it comes to training, and emotions should be left out, but I’m not implying that affection should as well.

Rather that the training should supply plenty of both but at the appropriate times.

Source from: americanchronicle.com

By Kenneth Elliott

Getting a new pet dog and the joy of having a new companion around comes with a lot of responsibilities. Of course you must feed your new pet, take care of its health with regular visits to the vet, groom him, and give it lots of love and attention. Many animal lovers do not think any further than that, but dog training is also a very important part of owning dogs. Dog training ensures a healthier and more fulfilling life for you and your pet.

Behavior Problems

Proper discipline can help prevent dog behavior problems later in your pets´ life. And proper behavior starts with first house breaking your dog. This is usually the most common form of dog training that most owners take on when first purchasing a dog, but a caring owner will often go a lot further than the basics. Your pet’s obedience will lead to a stronger bond between you, as well as meaning less frustration and annoyance. Your pets start learning and shaping behaviors early in life, so that is the best time to start with dog training basics.

Obedience Training

There are many aspects to dog obedience training, and not everyone looks to get the same experience out of it. Some people will be content with house breaking, leash training, and basic obedience to simple command. Many dog owners do not realize that they can change or prevent problem behaviors such as barking, whining, digging, growling, chewing, and aggression. Yet all these behaviors can be addressed with proper teaching. Decide what tutelage is most important for you and your pet, and make sure you are willing to invest the time and energy into a program that will yield the desired results.

Puppy Training

You can never start too early with puppy training. Many people hold the mistaken belief that puppies under six months are too young to train, but this is simply not so. You can start shaping their behavior the moment you acquire them if it is done in the proper manner. If you do some research, it is easy to find plenty of dog training books, websites about pet training, and obedience training tutorials. Some people may even consider hiring a professional instructor. Ask your veterinarian or friends if they know of any reputable trainers in the area, and shop around for the person who is right for you.

Professional Trainers

If you decide to use a professional trainer, be sure you keep the breed of your dog in mind when shopping around. Some breeds may be harder to train than others, so some trainers may prefer not to work with them. Alternatively, some trainers may specialize in certain breeds, so they will have more success with your pet than another trainer may have. Even if you are teaching your pet yourself, there are books and information geared toward certain breeds. Do not get discouraged if you are told your breed is hard to train, just look for proven methods to use. The hardest work always yields the greatest rewards.

Owning a pet is a big responsibility, but the right attitude can make it fun and rewarding. Do not think of your canine companion as an object for your amusement, but as a living creature that can become a treasured friend. Dogs are motivated by their owner’s pleasure, so if you work together, the dog training process will be an important step in your relationship. You will learn to trust one another, which will allow you to enjoy the pleasure of each other’s company. Teach your dog what you want and expect from him, and he will give you that and more in return.

Source from: americanchronicle.com

By Kenneth Elliott

Dogs are said to be mans best friend. But I will take it a little further than that. A well trained dog will become your best friend. Beyond being well socialized, a well trained dog removes the stress of the likelihood of biting someone. They also tend to stay calm in distracting environments. Not jumping up on people and being much more curtious on household furniture.

Also, well trained dogs are more likely to stay with the same owner, as opposed to being abandoned to the pound. Owners with well trained dogs are more satisfied with their decision on owning a dog. One research report from the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association found that 96% of shelter dogs had never had any training.

Training your dog helps to teach them boundaries, thus making them more comfortable around humans. There are many different dog training programs and many professional dog trainers. However, just because someone has a business card doesn’t mean they are a qualified trainer.

Finding a qualified trainer does not have to be a lot of work. If your friends have well trained dogs, ask them if they know of a good trainer. Also, take advantage of networking at your local park. While walking your dog ask other dog owners who they recommend.

Once you have found a trainer, ask them what method of training they teach. There have been dozens of different training methods for dogs that have been in and out of fashion over the years. Ask the trainer what method they use, why they use it, and what the benefits of it are. Also ask for references.

Whether you train your dog yourself or find a professional, teaching your dog commands and socializing it is important. Areas to cover in training include:

1. Socializing to strangers: This is easy to accomplish while out walking your dog around the neighborhood and introducing them to people.

2. Socializing with other dogs: You can do this at dog parks, or even better in a dog training class.

3. Leash walking at a steady pace: You can start this training as soon as you get your new dog.

4. Crate training: This is important, especially to build up a tolerance to stay in a kennel environment for several hours.

5. The sit command: This is usually the first command new owners teach their dog.

6. The down/stand command: These commands help develop boundaries for the dog.

7. The stay command: This command is important for your dog to master, especially in an environment with a lot of distractions.

There are many benefits to having a well trained dog. But it doesn’t necessarily mean the dog will not develop behavioral problems down the road, like separation anxiety. Simply put a well trained dog is a joy to be around and strengthens the human-animal bond.

Source from: dailynewstribune.com

By Linda Lombardi

The weather’s fine, and you’d love for your dog to get the kind of exercise and socialization that can’t happen at the end of a leash. Maybe you even have a new dog park in the neighborhood.

You’ve got just one problem: Once your dog’s off leash, you’re not sure you can get him back.

The traditional obedience method of teaching a recall starts from a sit-stay, the command dogs learn to sit and then stay put.

But for the average dog owner, the stay is a huge bother to train, and it’s the long way around. You just want your dog to come back; you don’t need him to sit first.

And a dog that responds to “come” in a class or in your yard might not do so in the park. Dogs can’t generalize the same way humans do. To a dog’s mind, you’re not asking for the same thing.

“So first you have to train it. Then you have to generalize it,” says Pat Miller, trainer and author of “The Power of Positive Dog Training.”

To train your dog to come:

First, figure out what is really rewarding to him, such as getting a treat or playing tug with a toy or being petted. Observe, don’t assume. Some dogs, for example, don’t really like being patted on the head.

Now start on the command. “Start with the dog next to you and run away from him and say ‘come’ in a cheerful tone of voice,” says Miller. Get him really romping, says Miller. You want the dog to learn that “come” means “I’m having a party and you’re invited!”

Next, start at a short distance from the dog. If you have help, have someone hold and then release the dog when you say “come.” Otherwise, Miller suggests leaving a small handful of treats on the ground. Back away as the dog eats them, and then as he eats the last one, call him to come.

Reward the dog when he comes to you. Gradually increase the distance, and don’t just stand there as you call, move! Turning and running away is inviting to a dog, but standing and looking at him can be intimidating.

Once he responds reliably to your call, it’s time to start generalizing, step by step. First, add distractions in the place where you’re already training. A friendly dog is the perfect distractor if you’re planning to head for a dog park eventually. Let them play till they start getting tired, then train as above.

Next you’ll want to work on the command in a new place without distractions, then add distractions in that location. Keep your tone cheerful, Miller says, don’t get more commanding. And never punish the dog if he doesn’t come in the new situation - that means you’ve moved too fast. Go back a step and try again.

“Progressing from one step to the next requires that you get good at understanding and reading your dog,” says Miller.

Don’t rush the process, you’ll probably need to spend a few days on each step.

Some other general pointers:

* If you don’t have fenced areas in which to train, you can work with the dog on a long line. But be wary of the generalization problem: “Come on a long leash” and “Come off leash” are not the same thing. So Miller recommends gradually switching to a lighter line, then leaving it dropped on the ground instead of holding it, to work up to being off-leash.

* Once you’ve trained your dog, be careful that the call to come never leads to anything unpleasant. Go and get your dog if you need to cut his nails, don’t call him to come.

* If you have to use “come” to leave a park or playtime, make sure that you sometimes call, reward, and let him go back to playing, so “come” isn’t always associated with “play’s over.”

* If your dog starts to hesitate or look uncertain when you call him, you’ve probably accidentally “poisoned” the command, says Miller. Pick a new word and retrain him to come to that; it’s faster than trying to “fix” the word that’s gotten a bad association.

Remember that he doesn’t speak English, so any word will do: what’s important to your dog is what happens when he responds, and it should always be positive.

Source from: uticaod.com

Spring is here. Everything is fresh and new, and many families will bring a new puppy into their home.

Before even looking, you should first start by:

● Recognizing the commitment of owning a dog: Consider every aspect including food, shelter, Vet bills, training costs, boarding for vacations, etc.

Owning a dog is a lifelong financial and emotional responsibility. If you can’t keep that commitment, don’t make it. And once you’ve made it, don’t break it. Your dog’s life depends on you.

● Choosing carefully: When you are considering buying or adopting a dog, choose one that fits your lifestyle. If you are high energy, look at a high-energy dog such as an Australian shepherd. If you are a couch potato, maybe a basset hound is better for you. Either way, you want to choose one that displays confidence and one that is not fearful of people or sensitive to noises or environment.

Do not choose a dog/pup because of size, breed or reputation. It is not fair to the dog when you mismatch. Please keep in mind, that no two dogs are alike. Far too often, we hear: “But I grew up with” or “I’ve had this breed all my life.”

Temperament, not breed, is important.

● Ensuring your dog is trained: Training your dog is equally important as providing food and water. Otherwise, your adorable little 10-pound puppy could turn into a 100-pound nightmare.

Training will increase the bond between you and your dog, helping you to communicate better and helping your dog understand what is acceptable behavior from the start. If the owner does not take the leadership role, the dog could develop unwanted behaviors and try to take that role himself, making your life, unbearable and stressful.

Any well-trained, well-socialized dog of any breed including mixed breeds can become loyal family companions with proper leadership, guidance and training from the start.

Source from: goerie.com

by Steven M. Sweeney

Caylee sat obediently, her wide eyes on her owner as she waited for her next command.

Mike Lesniewski didn’t make his pug puppy wait long.

“Caylee, come,” he said. And the little dog wiggled over.

“It’s a lot more enjoyable experience to have a pet that’s listening to you,” Lesniewski said. “The biggest thing is not so much training the dog, but training the owner how to train the dog. … I don’t know if it’s puppy training or owner training.”

Either way, Lesniewski decided to get help with teaching the 4-month-old pug to sit, stay and come, in a kindergarten puppy-training class at Proud Land the Pet Place in Fairview Township.

Training a puppy correctly is one of the first steps in responsible dog ownership, experts said.

But being a responsible dog owner doesn’t start with puppy training — or end there, they added. It means making a good match of dog and owner, having your pet spayed or neutered, and making sure it has regular veterinarian care.

“You need to choose the right dog, and you need to give them a lifetime of training,” said Isabelle Wolf, who teaches basic obedience classes at Camboro Veterinary Hospital in Edinboro. “It’s a big commitment.”

She and other authorities said responsible dog ownership would cut down on the number of dog bites and the number of animals euthanized at shelters each year.

Highlighting the importance of being a good dog owner was so important to the American Kennel Club that the organization named September as Responsible Dog Ownership month, which will be recognized Saturday in Erie at an event at Frontier Park.

“Great dogs come from great dog owners,” said Pat Van Zandt Christianson, the founder of Therapy Dogs United, which organized Saturday’s event. “Our goal is to try and change as many human behaviors as we possibly can through awareness and education.”

Creating a great dog takes routine discipline, she said. That’s why she believes formal training classes, regular socialization and quick recognition of bad behavior — such as growling or other aggression — is important.

Wolf said she often sees pet owners wait too long before attempting to correct an aggressive behavior.

“The problem with aggression is that it works really well, and a dog figures that out,” Wolf said. “Once they realize it makes people back off, it creates a cycle, one that can be dangerous.”

Joe Grisanti, executive director of the Northwest Pennsylvania Humane Society, said one of the most common times dogs become aggressive is during meals. He said that’s why he suggests that owners of a new puppy sit next to the dog while it’s eating, so it becomes accustomed to human contact during feeding time.

“It’s simple training that people overlook, things like being involved in a puppy’s feeding,” Grisanti said. “Doing something like that is very effective in avoiding problems later on.”

Finding the right match
But while training is important, Grisanti and the other experts said the most important thing a pet owner can do is choose the right dog.

Potential pet owners need to research a breed before taking a dog home, Grisanti said.

“You see all the time people who have fallen in love with the appearance and personality of an animal, but they don’t understand the genetics of a certain pedigree demand certain things or suggest certain things,” he said.

Weimaraners, for example, were very popular a few years ago. It was easy to see why the beautiful gray dogs had become a favorite.

But soon, the Humane Society began seeing more and more Weimaraners abandoned.

“They’re a dog that requires much more time and exercise than the average dog,” Grisanti said. “They’d be great pets for someone who had that time and energy for them, but like any animal, they can be destructive when their needs aren’t being met.”

Joan Wienczkowski, the owner of Proud Land, said an impulsive pet purchase based on a favorite four-legged character in a movie or TV show is the wrong way to go.

Dalmatians had their day, thanks to the Disney film “101 Dalmatians”; pugs were posh after “Men In Black”; and Jack Russell terriers became popular because of the loveable Eddie on “Frasier.”

Wolf said she’s seen several instances of people who bought a Jack Russell terrier without doing research about the breed.

“They see they’re small and cute, and so (mistakenly think) that must mean they’re easy,” she said. “But they’re bred to hunt rodents all day. They’re wound up, and they’re a lot to handle.”

Ron Mangine, of Fairview, brought his 3-month-old golden retriever, Isabella, to Proud Land for an obedience class.

He said he hopes to instill in her the discipline needed to become a search-and-rescue dog.

He knows it will take a lot of work. But he’s seen what can happen if he doesn’t consistently train Isabella.

He frequently notices problems between dogs and their owners during his daily walk.

“Is the dog walking the person, or is the person walking the dog? It’s easy to tell which dogs have the proper discipline,” he said. “Is the dog all over you? It’s an indication that the dog is really the master.”

DogTrainster aims to educate dog owners on how to be a better owner to their pet and so we have authored a mini-series entitled “Train Yourself To Train Your Dog Mini-Series”.  If you would like to check out our mini-series click here.

Source from: examiner.com

by Jeff Millman

Providing clear instructions is critical in dog training. Have you ever thought about the cues we give our dogs from their perspective? Over the years I am sometimes completely amazed that a given dog is able to understand the trainer at all. All trainers present many different signals to their dog without knowing it. Have you ever said, “Sit” at the same time you are moving your hand in the “Sit” hand signal that you have taught your dog? That is called “blocking”, which is presenting a dog two signals at the same time. The dog might learn one signal, both, or neither. In that case, is the cue for “Sit” the verbal cue, the hand signal, or the combination?

If you want your dog to learn BOTH the hand signal and the verbal cue, try this: say the verbal cue with a quiet body (no extraneous movements,) and then after one second, help your dog with the hand signal. If you have not established a hand signal cue, work on that first.

Lesson learned:  Don’t expect your dog to learn two things at once. Separate the two with a slight pause.

Next I want you think about specific language. What does “Sit Down” mean? Does it mean “Sit” or “Down?” People have a tendency to speak in synyonyms, colloquial speech patterns and slang. That is fine if you teach your dog all of those specific terms. But if you have not, don’t expect her to know them. Use “Sit” or “Down”, but don’t use them together.

Lesson learned: Be specific with your language.

If your dog is having trouble with something, ask someone  to watch one of your training sessions to determine if you are being clear with your instructions.

One of the most common confusing messages that I see all the time is when people say, “Down” to their dog when she is jumping on people or on furniture that is off-limits. I recommend teaching “Off” to mean “keep your paws off that person or object”. “Down” should be reserved for lying down. One reason that I am such a stickler about this point is that the meaning of the cue gets diluted over time. Think about asking your dog to “Down” off of your guests and furniture many times a day and then expecting them to lie “Down” when you want them to? You have defined one cue to mean two very different things.

Lesson learned: Define each cue to mean one behavior.

The last example is the common usage of “Leave it” and “Drop” used interchangeably. The lesson is the same as “Down” and “Off”, but there is a more noticeable and dramatic reason for making sure you are consistent. You could save your dog’s life by paying attention to this rule. If you need your dog to “Drop” something that may hurt her, you don’t want her to pause to interpret what you mean. You want her to do the behavior as a reflex response. Many people use “Leave it” to mean both: “Move your mouth away from that object” and, “Drop it” to mean, “Open your mouth”.

Getting snappy, consistent responses requires conditioning through repetition of behaviors paired with a cue many, many times. Think movements in sports, responding to orders in the military, and typing as three examples. Why do athletes at any level practice for hours and hours? It is to get muscle-memory of behaviors and achieve a level of comfort with the action so there body easily does the movement without a lot of thought. This allows them to refine their movements, think about strategies, work on their role and not get bogged down in the details.

Have you ever asked your dog to do something and then gotten a really delayed response, or none at all? Of course you have. I have, every trainer has. That is part of the learning process. If you define “Leave it” to mean two different things, will your dog have a snappy response? Possibly, but you are leaving too much room for interpretation. Teach, “Leave It” to mean “Move your mouth away from that” and, “Drop it” to mean “Open your mouth”.

Lesson learned: Snappy responses require repetition of behaviors paired with a cue many, many times.

I am very excited about my next two videos, Stop and Puppy Biting. The Puppy Biting video also includes teaching a soft mouth using the game of tug, as well as teaching “Drop”. Look for both videos in the new few weeks.

Source from: examiner.com

Jeff Millman - Dog Training Examiner

Did you know that there are training tasks you can work on when you are with your dog without even much thought? I always stress to my clients to “put the trainer hat on” a little more frequently throughout the day to achieve their goals. If you just think about training a little bit more every day, you can work on a list of goals whenever you are with your dog and he will be better trained before you know it!

Dogs (and people) learn through consistent patterns. Here are some examples of patterns that you can teach your dog every day. The key is to SAY THE CUE ONCE and then gently help your dog understand the meaning.

Turn right, turn left. When you are walking your dog, say, “left” or “right” a half-second before you turn that direction and then gently guide your dog that way. If you work on this whenever you walk your dog, eventually he will turn the correct direction on his own.

Stop. Say this every time before you stop your dog at a curb or before he hits the end of the leash if he is forging ahead on a walk. A more advanced exercise is to do the same while you are running. Make sure you don’t jerk your dog when stopping.

Excuse Me. My dog, Ranger, used to lie down in front of the refrigerator all the time when he was a puppy. He would seemingly read my mind and do it right before I needed something out of there. All I did was say, “Excuse me”, pause for a moment and gently opened the door. The small movement touched him and he got up and walked away. Now, all I need to do is say, “Excuse me” wherever he is and he understands I need him to move out of my way.

These are just three examples of training strategies you can use every day. What do you do with your dog to work on training on walks, during mealtimes, or other times?