DogTrainster.Com

Article Source: examiner.com
Article by: Amanda Vargas

Now that you have the right size crate, let’s discuss the best way to introduce Fido to his new bedroom. We always want Fido to associate his crate positively. Believe me , it is not an easy task to get a dog of any size or age to go into a crate if they don’t want to. Because of this you will want to use positive reinforcement the quickest and easiest way to do this is to go and get small training biscuits or even those treats that you can tear into small pieces. For my dogs I usually use the “sausage dog food” you can find them in most pet stores.  Not only are these easy to slice and cut into small pieces, but it tends to be more fragrant so my dogs tend to focus more on it amid distractions.

These training tips that I am about to tell you will work with dogs of all age groups and even with cats that you want to get in a travel carrier.

*  If your dog is reluctant to get in the carrier at first, use a command like “go to bed’ or “crate”  THEN toss your treat in the crate and the dog will follow.

* Close the crate’s door behind him, but only leave it closed for a few seconds at first and increasing each time.

* Repeat this often. But never exceed the attention span of your dog. The moment that you realize that your dog has lost all interest in what you are doing it is time for you to move on to another training issue or to stop until the next day.

* Some dog breeds will catch on very quickly due to the nature of the breed. Others will catch on [or not as quickly] due to the dogs personality. The thing to remember is to have patience.  Yes, your dog should obey you, but your dog should also respect you and think of you as the alpha dog. [We will discuss alpha issues at a later date.]

If your dog has not responded to the treats in the first session of training, you must find what your dog is motivated by, whether that is a tennis ball or a stuffed toy. It is what motivates them that will help in the success of their training. But please be aware if your dog is overly stimulated by a tennis ball, that is if it jumps and hops and barks, that may not be the best training tool. Also it is not the best behavior for your dog. Please remember to check back again soon for the next crate training article.

Happy Training!

Article Source: turnagaintimes.com
Article by: Julie St. Louis

So you just got an adorable new puppy and after all the cuddling and petting you think, “Now what?” Well, now it’s time for potty training. He or she needs to learn to go to the bathroom outside, and the sooner the better.

Despite the horror stories you may have heard from others, housebreaking is easier than you think as long as you set yourself and your pup up for success. For new pups it’s best to keep them in your sight while you are home, and crated or limited to one area of the house while you are out. To keep Rover in your sight you can shut the door to the room you are in, or keep your pup on a long leash tethered to you.

Know the signs and most likely times when your pup will need to go out. Rover will start to sniff the floor or may become restless or whine to get your attention. He’ll need to go out within about 20 minutes of eating, sleeping or playing, so make a point of taking him out at these times. Consistency is key.

If you aren’t able to recognize the signs, try teaching him to ring bells hanging off the door handle. A strip of sleigh bells work really well for this. Just before heading out gently help your pup nose the bells. Once Rover has done his “business” praise him enthusiastically so his tail wags, or reward with a treat. Immediately take him back into the house so that he associates the bells or your praise with going potty outside. If you stay out there to play, then he will wrongly associate the bells with going out to have fun, not for going to the bathroom.

Another added measure is to teach him special commands for both peeing and pooing. Take your pup for a walk. As he lifts his leg, or she squats to pee, say a word like “hurry” or “spot.” Each time your pup pees say this word, so that eventually Rover will associate your word command with peeing or pooing. Again, after each time give praise, “Good hurry” or Good spot,” or a treat reward. This way your pup will know that he’s making you happy and doing things right. This will come in handy on those super cold days when you want to go out and get back in fast.

Of course you can’t be home with you pup non-stop, but for faster training it’s advisable to take several days or a week off from work to focus on your pup. If you can’t be home for extended periods of time, or when you do leave the house, consider placing your pooch in a pet carrier or wire kennel, or using a baby gate to keep him confined to one area of the house, ideally one without carpeting.

A young puppy will be all right for up to two hours alone. If you must be gone most of the day, consider hiring a dog walker or having a friend come by to let your pup out every couple of hours. As the puppy ages, he will be able to go for longer and longer periods without being let out. Confining a pup to a crate or smaller area is not cruel, and in most instances puppies will feel more secure by having a space that is theirs. Also, puppies tend not to mess in an area they consider their den or bed. The crate should be big enough for the pup to stand up and turn around in, but not so big that he’s able to pee in one corner and still be comfortable on the other side of the crate. Place a durable toy, or treat inside and he will be content.

If your pup has an accident in the house, and he will, don’t rub his nose in it, or hit him or berate him, especially if you did not catch him in the act. Your pup lives in the present and will not associate your punishments with soiling the carpet. He will connect it with whatever he is doing at that moment and be confused. In particular if you yell and scream at him as soon as you get home, your pup will not be running to greet you happily when you return for much longer. If you do catch your pup mid-pee, scoop him up and run him outside to finish and then praise him.

Finally, for cleaning up the messes, there are several helpful products on the market as well as some home remedies. Water and soap will not be enough to dissolve the stain and the scent. You must get the scent out, or Rover and his other puppy pals will continue to mark that spot. Nature’s Miracle, Simple Solution, and several with Arm-n-Hammer Baking Soda added, all work to remove the odor-causing bacteria. If you don’t have any of these available you can use a solution of half vinegar half water. The vinegar will neutralize odor.

Enjoy your new puppy while helping him become a happy and well-trained member of you family. Remember positive reinforcement and consistency, and the love and companionship he gives back to you will only grow stronger each day.

Article Source: chron.com

A few tips from the Houston SPCA’s step-by-step guide to crate training.

1. Start with the right set-up. Choose a crate that’s just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in, put a soft towel or blanket inside, and place the crate in a room where your family spends a lot of time.

2. Avoid using the crate as a punishment.  The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, such as treats and toys. The last thing you want to do is force your dog inside.

3. Slow down. Training should take place in a series of small steps that can last several days or several weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperment and past experience.

4. Don’t make your dog spend too much time in his crate. If he’s crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s spending too much time in too small of a space. Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. And, remember that puppies should only be in a crate for only one hour more than they are in months of age.

5. Steel yourself against whining and barking. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops. Don’t give in, no matter how heartbreaking the sound; otherwise you’ll teach your dog that carrying on will get him exactly what he wants!

Article Source: examiner.com
Article by: Jeff Millman

I frequently get calls from potential clients that have young puppies. Many people know the importance of using a crate, but don’t use it properly.

The benefits of using a crate are many:

* You can prevent destruction
* You can speed up housetraining
* You can decrease the chances for separation anxiety

So many people use the crate when they are at work, but keep the puppy out of the crate all night when they are home.

This is a mistake.

If your puppy is only in the crate during the day when you are at work, you run the risk of having an older dog that is not used to being away from you. At the worst he could get separation anxiety, or he might just be a frustrated older dog, or frustrated puppy.

What happens if you have a few friends over and your puppy has never been in the crate in the evening, especially with the commotion of guests? If you put your puppy in the crate without without prior practice, he might bark or whine and be a big distraction to you and your guests.

It is important that you are able to get a break from your puppy for real life activities. If your puppy never learns to be in the crate in the evening, you are limiting your ability to lower the inevitable stress associated with having a puppy.

It is also impossible to watch a puppy every moment when you are home. If you don’t use the crate, he might learn to be destructive when you are out of the room. The more bad habits your puppy learns now, the more work for you later to “unteach” those bad habits.

Puppies can be wonderful, fun, cute little furballs that are nothing but fun. But, they can also be (and usually are) a tremendous amount of work. Put yourself and your puppy in a situation where he learns to be  calm and comfortable in the crate at all times during the day. If you spend “quality time” with your puppy when he is out of the crate and train him, exercise him and work with him, he will most likely be tired and sleepy in the crate anyway.

Article Source: burnsidenews.com

Caring for your new dog: a guide for adopters

Obedience Training

After veterinarian care, obedience should be your next priority. Obedience training has come a long way in the last 10 years.

First and foremost, training should never hurt or frighten your dog. A dog that’s trained using harsh methods will develop an array of behaviour problems and insecurities while learning you can’t always be trusted. This will be detrimental in the development of your relationship.

Professional obedience instructors who teach using positive reinforcement methods have the skills to help you and your new companion learn how to interact while developing a trusting relationship that will make your dog a favourite of family members, friends and neighbours.

Dogs are as individual as humans. Your obedience instructor should work with your family to develop a curriculum that will work best for you and your dog.

Most owners find the use of food and praise to be the easiest way to start. However, as you and your dog get to know one another, your dog may be more motivated to work for a variety of rewards such as playing or being patted.

Obedience classes can vary greatly from larger class sizes with multiple instructors, to smaller more intimate groups or personal one-on-one instruction in a class-type setting or in your own home. Many factors will determine which obedience classes are right for you, including location, time, cost and the personality of you and your dog.

• Larger class sizes with multiple instructors: These classes are made up of larger groups of dogs and handlers and should have multiple instructors. A good ratio is one instructor for every three to five dog/handler teams. These classes are great for a person who hopes to allow their dog off-leash at dog parks or similar situations and gain a reliable recall (“come”) command. The larger class sizes simulate life-like scenarios where your dog will learn to avoid distractions and focus on you. Also, having multiple instructors to work with provides a wider variety of skills and knowledge at your fingertips.

• Smaller class sizes with one or two instructors: These classes still give you the benefits of training your dog around other dogs (one of the biggest distractions for most), but on a smaller scale. This can make it easier for handlers and dogs that are easily distracted, or for anxious dogs.

• One-on-one training: Whether it’s in a classroom or in your own home, receiving individual instruction gives you and your dog undivided attention and can really catapult your training. This type of training is great for owners who may be feeling a little unsure or need help correcting specific behaviours.

Crate Training

Crate training has many benefits when used appropriately. A dog “crate” is the general term for referring to a rectangular enclosure. Crates can be constructed of wire, metal, molded plastic or a combination of these materials. Be sure the crate is of adequate size. Most people with puppies will opt to buy a crate that will accommodate the dog when it is full grown, but can be partitioned off to help with house training when they’re young. A dog should be able to stand up straight, turn around and stretch out in their crate. A dog that’s properly crate trained will enjoy their crate throughout their lives and will use it for refuge from a busy household.

Crate training has several benefits, including:

• puppies and dogs that are being house trained to eliminate (urinate and defecate) outside are less likely to eliminate in their crate, unless left for inappropriate amounts of time or before the dog has had a chance to eliminate outside.

• dogs that damage household items during times they can’t be directly supervised cannot practice these behaviours in a crate.

• in cases of travel or illness, crates can be a necessity. A dog that has been trained to be comfortable in a crate is at an advantage in these situations.

• for dogs involved in dog sport functions such as agility and flyball, crates provide a much-needed resting spot during break times.

The crate’s location needs to be somewhere inside the house where the dog is comfortable. The location should be in a quiet space close to family areas, but just outside heavy traffic zones. Make it clear to all children living or visiting the house that the crate is not a “playpen” for them. However, you should get your dog used to people reaching in and out of the crate to avoid your dog guarding his crate.

While puppies (eight to 16 weeks) will normally adjust more quickly to crating since they are being introduced to this new world only a small portion at a time, crate training adult dogs should start in smaller steps.

If possible, have your crate purchased and set-up prior to bringing your new dog home for the first time. Secure the door open, so it can’t accidentally shut and frighten the dog. Encourage the dog to explore the crate by placing treats or toys in the crate and rewarding the dog with praise every time they go in the crate.

Feed the dog all their meals in the crate and start closing and latching the door, working up the time until their meal is done. Slowly increase the time they spend in the crate, perhaps during your suppertime or while going out to run errands.

A crate should never be used for punishment. It’s not recommended that any dog spend more than six consecutive hours at a time in a crate.

As many dogs mature or settle into family routines, regular crating may become unnecessary. If you think your dog is a good candidate for having unsupervised household access, start in with small steps. Leave your dog with limited access in the house while you do some activity close at hand, but out of the dog’s sight. Leave the dog for no more than a few minutes at a time, gradually increasing your absence to half days then full days when necessary.

House Training

Most adult dogs will catch on to the idea of house training with relative ease. Remember, human babies are usually not introduced to the idea of using a toilet until they are at least two-years-old. Furthermore, most human babies are not reliably toilet trained until they are around four-years-old. Even then, accidents will happen.

The age of your dog and any possible medical issues they may have will also affect your house training. Situations such as stress, change in diet, intestinal upset, intestinal parasites and urinary tract infections can make house training difficult to impossible. It’s important to talk to your veterinarian if you have these concerns.

When dealing with a puppy or a young dog, a good rule of thumb is to relate their age (in months) to the number of hours they’re physically capable of controlling their bladders and bowels. A puppy at two months should be capable of controlling their bladder for about two hours. A four-month old puppy can manage about four hours. If you have adopted a puppy or a young dog, there will be some time before you may be able to manage a full night’s sleep.

Just like every other aspect of your dog’s life, consistency is key when it comes to house training. The more consistent your feeding and walking schedule, as well as crate training (see Crate Training section for more information), the more successful you will be in house training your new dog.

• Designating a relief spot: When designating a relief spot, certain factors should be considered. Will this area be easily accessible all year round, including during the winter months? What about garden areas and walk ways? Once you have designated a relief spot take your dog on-leash to the designated toilet area. Stand quietly, so that the dog can sniff around. Most people may instruct, “Go do your business” or “potty time,” but do not repeat this request and distract the dog. Do not praise the dog during their search. If after about five minutes your dog hasn’t gone to the bathroom, return them to the house, keeping a close eye on them for about half an hour, then try again. Once your dog has completed their business outside, praise and make a fuss about how smart they are and, of course, don’t forget a treat!

• Good Morning!: When people wake up in the morning, their first stop is usually the bathroom. If another family member already has the bathroom occupied, we know how uncomfortable it can be to wait. Your dog will appreciate access to relieve himself as much as you do in the morning. Take your dog out to use the bathroom as soon as you can after you wake up.

• Scheduling: Create a schedule that’s practical for you to maintain. If you can’t stick to your schedule, you can’t expect the dog to adhere to it. Try to feed your new dog one to two hours before you have to leave them. This should provide your dog enough time to digest their breakfast and ensure they have an opportunity to use the bathroom before you leave for work.

Schedule your dog’s bedtime and waking-up time. Adhere to these times as closely as possible. If you have a puppy or young dog and will be away from your home for more than a few hours, you’ll need to arrange to have somebody come in to take the dog out to their designated relief spot.

Keep track of your dog’s routine. Some dogs will “potty” two or three times per outing in the morning, but only twice per outing in the evening. Even if the weather is foul, do not let your dog know that you don’t want to be going outside with them. By teaching your dog that even in bad weather going outside is “the thing to do,” they will be more willing to convey their needs to you.

• Supervision in the house: Any mistakes your dog makes while you’re at home are due to your inattention. You should always know where your dog is and what they’re doing. If you realize it’s almost time for a potty break, don’t delay by thinking “after I finish the laundry.” After the laundry may be too late and you’ll have missed an opportunity to positively reinforce your dog’s bathroom habits.

By observing your dog you will quickly learn to tell the difference between a dog exploring his new home and his searching for a location to relieve himself. If you can’t supervise the dog for a period of time, put the dog in a confined area such as a crate or room where you are. Have the dog on their leash if it will help. When you’re relaxing, watching TV, reading or on the computer, have your dog with you as well. Try giving your dog some of their toys to play with.

Source from: news-journalonline.com

By Jacque Estes

Every pet owner has discovered an overturned kitchen trash can, mess on the carpet or a favorite item chewed up by the family pet.

Our first dog, a wire-haired terrier, was initially a guest at our house. When the owners returned from their vacation, they asked us to keep the dog while they put an advertisement in the newspaper. Their logic was it would be easier on the kids. No surprise, I talked my husband into keeping the dog permanently. He had no reason to say no. The dog had been an excellent pet the two weeks we kept him.

That changed when we returned home one night to discover dirt from a floor plant in the living room strewn across the carpet and my newly upholstered couch. Luckily I had neglected to water the plant and the mess was easily vacuumed away.

Murphy, the golden retriever wasn’t destructive, he just had a game of taking one pillow off the couch and placing it in the middle of the living room floor as soon as we left. It was his rebellion for being left alone.

Shadow took the rebellion up several notches. She was a shoe chewer — mine. The final straw came when she expressed her displeasure about being left by chewing up a Raggedy Ann doll I had as a little girl. Something had to be done. I was going broke replacing shoes (yes I could have put them away!) and the doll — well there wasn’t anything left to save.

It was time for crate training.

Many look at crate training as cruel to the animal, but if the crate is the appropriate size and the training is done correctly, there is nothing cruel about it and most dogs appreciate having their own room.

Crates need to be large enough for the animal to stand up and turn around in. There are two types of crates; airline carriers that are two solid plastic pieces that bolt together and have a grate door and wire “windows” on the sides, and collapsible metal crates. Wire crates are the best for home use because they provide more ventilation.

Crate training does not happen overnight. It is a slow process that allows the dog to get used to the idea that he has a special place. Crates should never be used for punishment. If you shove the dog into the crate every time he flips the trash can the crate will never be associated as a positive thing. The crate should be placed in an area of the house where there is a lot of family activity. Your dog wants to be with you, if you seclude him in a back room he is not going to want to use the crate.

Make the crate comfortable by placing a soft, clean blanket or towel. Place an item of your clothing, a T-shirt you don’t wear or something similar with your scent on it in the cage and possibly a bone or favorite toy. You can also place a few treats inside to encourage your dog to explore the cage. Leave the door open and allow the dog to approach the crate on his own. He might not do this right away, in fact he may wait until you are busy with something else to check it out. One day you will not be able to find him and there he will be curled up in the crate.

It also helps to feed your dog near the crate. This is another way to make the association that the crate is a good place. Once the dog is willing to go into the crate you can gently close the door. Leave him in there a minute or two and watch from an area where he cannot see you. If he becomes upset, calmly walk to the crate, speak softly, telling him what a good dog he is and let him out. Spend a little time petting or playing with him and then go on about your normal routine. You are trying to impress upon him that this a natural thing. Continue encouraging him into the cage by repeating this process several times during the day with food or toys and close the door, slowly increasing the time. The dog should never be pushed or forced into the crate.

Soon he should be able to stay in the crate while you run short errands or at night after the family has gone to bed. Dogs do not like to soil the area where they sleep and it is important not to keep them in the crate too long.

Some animals take right to the crate. Shadow was one of those dogs. She had been abused and was extremely timid when we adopted her and the crate was a very comforting place to her. She is now 12 years old and I have no doubt that if I put the crate up she would settle in immediately.

Another advantage of having an animal that is crate-trained is that when traveling, either on vacation or during an evacuation, you will be able to transport your animal safely.

Source from: examiner.com

By Jeff Millman

Do you want to prevent destruction, prevent separation anxiety, housetrain your puppy faster, train your dog faster and lessen overall frustration? Use a crate!

There are so many statements, misconceptions and questions about crate training that I hear all the time that I wanted to help clear up some of the confusion.

“I feel guilty about using the crate, it looks like doggy jail.”
One of the important strategies for acclimating a puppy to your environment is teaching her to be comfortable with your schedule. If you are able to be with your puppy 24 hours per day and are never going to leave your puppy alone then don’t worry about using a crate. But, this is not realistic. The crate provides a safe, humane place to keep your puppy safe and prevent some of the big issues like separation anxiety and destruction. Learn how to prevent separation anxiety.

“Since I am at work all day, I never use the crate when I am home because I want to be with my puppy.”
Puppies need to learn how to be in the crate in any situation they might be exposed to. What happens if you never teach your puppy to be in the crate when you are home and then have a few guests over for dinner? If your puppy is not comfortable in the crate your only options are to keep her out for the entire time or have a puppy barking and disrupting everyone the entire evening if she isn’t comfortable in the crate or another room. This may not be a problem when puppies are young and sleep a lot, but flash forward to an older puppy that is running around, chewing and getting into mischief when you want to visit with your guests.

As long as you are actively training and exercising your puppy when she is out of the crate, there is a good chance she will be tired and sleeping in the crate when she is in there. All dogs need the appropriate physical and mental exercise and the crate should not be used in lieu of providing your puppy with her needs. Read about how much exercise to give to a dog. A rough rule of thumb for 7-12 week old puppies is to provide 60 minutes of training and exercise after going potty and then using the crate for 2-3 hours. Puppies can generally hold their bladders one hour per month of age, so you can adjust these numbers based on your puppy’s age. If you play and train your puppy for a period after going potty and then use the crate until the next potty break, this ensures that you are using the crate sufficiently. As your puppy gets older, she might be out of the crate for 2 hours and then in the crate for 2-3 hours. Eventually as her bladder gets stronger you can adjust these numbers accordingly. Want to know how to transition a puppy out of a crate? Read how old a puppy should be before he gets run of the house.

“I never use the crate as a punishment; I don’t want my puppy to have a bad association.”
This is a very common statement I hear, and there is no basis to this. A timeout is used to teach a dog that the behavior that she did resulted in her getting taken away from where she wants to be. If you put her in the crate for a timeout, do so for a short period of time immediately following the inappropriate behavior, such as jumping on you, biting, or chewing on furniture. Then, take her out after 5-30 seconds as long as she is calm and then reward her for anything but the offending behavior. If she performs the inappropriate behavior again say, “Timeout” and repeat. As long as you make sure to reward good behavior and use a timeout for inappropriate behavior, she will learn not to do the inappropriate behavior because it doesn’t benefit her. She won’t hate the crate itself, she will not like the fact that she was put in there and taken away from all the fun. That is an important distinction. The only caveat to this rule is that dogs that already have separation anxiety often do not like being in crates and can have a panic attack. These dogs are not good candidates for using this timeout strategy. Learn about timeouts and teaching a dog to stop certain behaviors.

Other Crate Tips

* For housetraining, the crate should be just big enough so your puppy can walk in, stretch and lay down
* Move the crate around your house, if possible, to provide different scenery for your puppy. This will help her get accustomed to being at different houses and being kenneled when you are away.
* Do not take your puppy out of the crate if she is scratching, whining, barking, digging or jumping on the side of the crate. You don’t want your puppy to think these behaviors get rewarded or she might do these behaviors for extended periods of time when alone and possibly acquire separation anxiety.
* Use stuffed Kongs or other stuffed toys to keep your puppy occupied and happy in the crate.
* Be cautious of bones, toys or rawhides that can be choking hazards. I never recommend leaving anything besides Kongs in crates to avoid choking risks.