DogTrainster.Com

Article Source: progressivepuppy.com

For centuries, humans have imagined they are the only animals with morals.  But humans are not alone in the moral arena… Animal behaviorist Marc Bekoff says there’s a long list of observable emotional and ethical behavior of dogs:

• Most dogs have a sense of fair play. They dislike cheaters. They experience joy in play. They delight in friends. The big guys handicap themselves in games with little guys.

• Dogs get jealous when a rival gets more or better treats or treatment. They are resentful, unnerved or saddened by unfair behavior. They are made anxious by suspense. They get afraid.

• They are embarrassed when they mess up or do something clumsy - and they feel remorse or regret when they do something wrong. They seek justice. They remember the bad things done to them but sometimes choose to forgive.

• Dogs have affection and compassion for their animal and human friends and family. They defend loved ones. They grieve their losses. They have hope.

Article Source: northernnews.ca
Article by: Matthew Margolis

Barking is as natural as breathing. Triggered by a state of excitement, barking is a dog’s means of communicating anger, loneliness, fear, playfulness or a need for something.

Excessive barking is barking’s obnoxious and intolerable cousin. It’s an exaggeration of natural canine behavior that can only be eliminated by either giving in to the dog’s demand or reconditioning the dog. I’d advise doing the latter –stat.

The excessive barking of an overindulged or neglected dog has ruined friendships, destroyed relationships and added to the overwhelm of courts already jammed with frivolous concerns that are largely solvable without the aid of lawyers and judges. Time and money are wasted. Friends and credibility are lost –and in some cases the dog itself in the dead of night. Furthermore, if you’re a renter, you may come home to find yourself staring at a notice to vacate.

So don’t ignore your neighbor’s complaints about your dog’s excessive barking. Instead, first find out whether you have a dog problem or a neighbor problem. Do a little sleuthing. Leave the dog with a friend or relative, or board him at a local kennel for a few days. During that time, ask your neighbor whether the barking has been a problem. If he complains even when the dog isn’t there, you have a neighbor problem. But if the dog turns out to be the culprit, there are adjustments that can and should be made to your behavior, the dog’s environment and/or the dog’s temperament.

Possible reasons behind excessive barking are vast but rarely mysterious: tethering, improper confinement (i. e., in a room behind a closed door), outside distractions (i. e., construction, stray animals, lawn-mowers, a steady stream of strangers), bad weather, separation anxiety, heightened territorialism, lack of exercise, genetics, temperament, hunger…

There’s a hilarious cartoon that features an impatient pup sitting next to an empty food bowl at the feet of his master, an artist consumed with the masterpiece-in-the-making on the easel before him. The caption: “And how about some dinner, huh? One of the great masters, indeed.”

The cartoon makes it clear that some problems come with simple solutions:

–Keep the dog in a fenced backyard or dog run, rather than tethered to a tree out front.

–Ensure he gets sufficient exercise –two or three vigorous walks every day, with some spirited games of fetch thrown in for good measure. The amount of exercise depends on the breed of dog.

–When inside, keep him confined to an area of the house with a baby gate so he can see his world, rather than shutting him off from the world in a room behind closed doors.

–While you’re gone, close window blinds and drapes, and play soothing music or low-level talk-radio to ease the pain of separation and dull unpleasant exterior distractions.

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–Give him a Nylabone toy to while away the hours until you return. Boredom can contribute to mindless barking.

–Don’t make a big fuss out of every goodbye. This only heightens his anxiety when you leave, which can result in a long tedious barking session on the heels of every departure.

–Don’t forget dinner and water. A satisfied dog is a quiet dog.

Barking problems that are more a matter of DNA than environment are less likely but more complex, and require a reconditioning of the dog as opposed to a mere adjustment to the dog’s environment. This demands patience and persistence on the part of the dog owner. Considering the problems brought on by excessive barking left unchecked, the effort is worthwhile.

For information on effective reconditioning techniques and tools –including the Margolis Maneuver and the proper use of the human voice in dog training –visit unclematty.comor read “When Good Dogs Do Bad Things,” available at your local library or online at unclematty.com.Remember, don’t get rid of the dog; get rid of the problem!

Dear Uncle Matty:During the holidays (both Thanksgiving and Christmas), our house is going to be full of visiting relatives. It’s a kind of family reunion, and some of them are getting up there in years. Two elderly uncles walk with canes, and others usually need some kind of assistance. I’m worried about Briskett, our energetic Labrador. She is 13 months old and a real handful.

The problem is, she not only jumps up on people when they first enter the house, but if they say anything to her, she’s up and at ‘em or in their laps if they are sitting down. Other than this problem, she is a really wonderful dog. She has not had any formal training, but she caught on to “Sit” and “Come here” all by herself. How can we teach her not to knock people down? — Anne C., in Boston

Dear Anne:The problem is the lack of training and a lack of true communication between you and your dog. A well-trained dog will always SIT and STAY on command. And if she is SITTING and STAYING, it is impossible for her to be JUMPING and SCARING your guests, and possibly injuring them. Your options are to hire a trainer who can solve the problems or to work with your dog yourself. Solving the jumping problem is not difficult, but it will require some time and effort. Do not resort to abusive techniques like kneeing the dog in the chest or stepping on her back toes. It is cruel treatment and harms the relationship between you and your best friend.

There are a lot of ways to correct a dog. One of the most effective is the corrective jerk using a training collar and leash. But you must know how to execute the correction properly. See “When Good Dogs Do Bad Things,” Siegal-Margolis, published by Little Brown and available at unclematty.comor at most libraries.

There are a couple of quick fixes that may work quite nicely. If your dog is not shy, keep a whistle around your neck or a shake can handy (empty soda can with a few pennies taped inside). Then, have someone greet your dog in the same fashion that usually encourages her to jump. When she does, blow the whistle followed by a firm “NO.” Or use the shake can and say a firm “NO.” When your dog stops jumping, praise her. Repeat this four or five times. If your dog is shy, a firm “NO” may be sufficient as opposed to a loud noise that may scare her.

This will help, but you still need to train yourself and this pooch in the basics.

Without training, the problems are endless. Remember, don’t get rid of the dog, get rid of the problem.

Woof!

Article Source: examiner.com
Article by: Jeff Millman

“Jake!, Jake!, Jake!”

I was in the park with my client and we were working on off leash control strategies with his rambunctious one-year-old Border Collie mix. Jake was not too interested in anything at the moment besides the squirrel jumping from branch to branch in a big oak tree. My client was calling Jake repeatedly before I asked him what he wanted Jake to do when he called his name.

My client told me that he wanted Jake to come to him when he called. I then asked him if he wanted him to come to him every time when he called him. “Yes, he said, but I sometimes want him to look at me when I say his name so I get his attention so then I can ask him to do something else.”

That is a problem. Using one cue for multiple meanings can be very confusing for dogs. These are contextual cues or cues that your dog has to think about the context of the cue based on the situation. To create snappy, reliable responses, teach one cue for a specific meaning and then condition that cue by practicing numerous repetitions until the cue and the resulting behavior are fixed in your dog’s personality.

It is very common for people to use their dog’s name in a variety of situations. The most common uses of meanings for a dog’s name include “Don’t jump on the guests”, “come here”, or “look at me.”

Another common contextual cue is, “leave it”. I frequently see people use “leave it” to mean both “leave that object alone” and “drop that object”. Instead of using “leave it” for both meanings, you should separately teach “leave it” which means “do not go near that object or put it in your mouth” and “drop it” to mean “open your mouth”.

So, the takeaway from all of this is to take a step back and make sure your dog understands exactly what each cue means that you are teaching. Do not expect your dog to understand different meanings of the cue based on the situation. Your dog’s name might mean, Come, Leave It, or just meant get your dog’s attention similar to a “Watch me” cue.

Article Source: seattletimes.nwsource.com
Article by: Lisa Moore

Tait the dog is now a teenager, and so far, I am pleased with how he is turning out.

Friendly and outgoing, confident and curious, he is eager to experience and learn new things, and is compliant and well-mannered.

Although I have been consistently focused on Tait’s education, he has taught me a lot as well. Here are a few discoveries made along the way:

• There is no substitute for ethical, knowledgeable breeders. It pays to do your research before making your puppy purchase.

• By constantly rotating toys, you can prevent destructive chewing.

• Puppies need exercise, every day, regardless of the weather or your state of mind.

• Do not allow your other dogs to raise your puppy, and don’t expect him to properly raise himself.

• When problems arise, don’t bury your head in the sand; meet them head on, and resolve them quickly.

• Training in public will be necessary, and probably a bit embarrassing.

• The quieter you remain, the better your dog will listen.

• When you go out of your way to acknowledge and reward behavior you like, your dog will offer those behaviors more often.

• Successful puppy-raising requires you to be smarter than your dog, and dogs are pretty bright.

• Raising a puppy shouldn’t mean your other dogs get less of your time.

• Use consequences sparingly: Rarely scold, so it means something when you do.

• Teaching your dog to respect you should never be confused with fearing you.

• Your spouse or others will unwittingly encourage behaviors in your puppy that you are trying to extinguish, but it often “takes a village” to raise a puppy, and you should be grateful for any and all help you get.

• Finally, remember that you chose him, and how your puppy ends up is directly related to your influence and interaction, and how you raise him.

Lisa Moore, a dog-training professional, writes about pet behavior in The Modesto Bee.

Article Source: examiner.com
Article by: Michelle Critchell

We’ve seen the photographs of people wearing surgical masks worldwide. You may have even seen people locally wearing the masks. I saw a landscaper with a mask on the other day and my first thought was swine flu, rather than the real cause for precaution–pollen.

We know we humans are susceptible to influenza viruses and there have been confirmed cases in the U.S., but can a dog catch the recent scary strain of swine flu? I asked Dr. Moe Richards and Dr. Mike Richards of Mathews Veterinary Clinic in Mathews, Virginia.

“I haven’t heard of a case of a dog contracting swine flu, especially in this country,” said Dr. Mike Richards. “Influenza research is changing; however, and it is recognized that dogs can get the flu,” added Dr. Richards.

FREAKY FACT: According to the CDC (Centers for Disease Control), studies have shown that 30% to 50% of commercial U.S. swine have been infected with swine flu.  And no, you cannot get swine flu from eating pork. There is no evidence to show that it can be transmitted through food. Eating properly handled and cooked pork and pork products is safe. Cooking pork to an internal temperature of 160°F kills bacteria and viruses.

“It is unlikely that a dog will get the swine flu, but there are reported cases of dogs getting the avain flu (bird flu). I would not be surprised to hear of a canine swine flu case,” noted Dr. Mike Richards.

It is unusual for people to get influenza virus infections directly from animals, but sporadic human infections caused by certain avian influenza viruses and pig influenza viruses have been reported. These sporadic human infections and outbreaks, however, rarely result in sustained transmission among humans., according to the CDC.